Garfish and Nettles. The South Coast Pantry

I received an early birthday present this, a beautiful book filled with stunning photography and simple recipes. Flicking through the crisp pages of my new South Coast cookbook I am halted on one particular recipe, the Foragers Tart. Created in Cobargo, the tiny tumbleweed town which I spent blistering hot summers at the local pool and miserably cold winter mornings on the quarter sized school bus. I do not recall Cobargo ever being a culinary hotspot for gastronomy, although our bus driver’s butchery always – and still does – had the finest locally produced meat on the coast.

Image: http://www.flickriver.com/places/Australia/New+South+Wales/Cobargo/recent/

Reading through the ingredients and method it seemed straightforward, easy to prepare and convenient for the modern inner-city foodie to recreate at home. Flour, butter, herbs, mushrooms, familiar flavours of traditional Limousin cuisine, one bunch of stinging nettles.

Children are taught to stay away from the plant with the spikes, the fear of harm embedded from an early age. It spreads through farms like the sun breaking through the clouds. Seen as a pest akin to rabbits, the farmers happy to provide free access in return for free farmhands. With gloved hands, the leaves are placed in boiling water to make them palatable and void of danger. The soft spines protecting the sweet leaves no deterrent for human curiosity and constant craving of new umami flavours. The fear of the unknown denying is of not only medicinal and health benefits but a flavor profile somewhere in the realm of leafy greens such as lively spinach and earthy kale.

Image: http://bioweb.uwlax.edu/bio203/2011/homolka_kail/

Nettle in the wild, free and nutricious

But why do we fear foods unknown to us? Are we so indebted to the major supermarkets we can no longer see wild foraged produce as an option? Memories of playing chef in the bush surrounding the lake after school are vivid. Wonga ferns providing nuts to be ground into rough meal and Australian Christmas trees with their tart, red, light bulb berries, nature’s sweets. Anything could be food, the only way to learn was to try. Growing up with a natural pantry has lead to a devoted sense of adorations towards food, what is perceived as food and the process of how food reaches our plate

 

Being raised in a community centered around locally grown and caught produce I have developed an understanding of the importance of being able to supply oneself with food. Akolele, in the shadows of Gulaga, overlooking Wallaga Lake, one road access into town, prone to rising flood waters with the tidal surges from the Pacific Ocean. Foraging may be born from necessity. There are plenty of fish to be caught, vegetables to be picked and eggs to be collected you just have to know how. You have to be open to bruises, blemishes and burnt bits from the fire, the South Coast pantry does not come polished or packaged.

Image: https://candeloblooms.com/category/sapphire-coast/

The Birds Nest Fern, known locally as the source of the Wonga Nut

We were taught to appreciate food, not just gratitude for a meal. The process from land and sea to our plate is just as important. A moment of contemplation led to think about my relationship with food now and how it has adapted to my changing environments over the years since leaving the South Coast. I couldn’t remember the last time I was appreciative of my food, where it came from, the producer, the hunter or the forager. I have lost my instincts for hunting and foraging food.

 

I tried to pinpoint the moment I lost my hunt and gather instincts. As I slowly have moved my way from regional to urban living, instinctual skills have been left in each preceding town. Deciphering different brightly coloured packages have become the new foragers field. Hunting has been replaced with finding the best value meat on special that week. As a society, we lack gratitude towards our food. A slightly askew carrot or fillet of fish with bones not worthy of our time and effort.

 

The garfish, the first food I ever hunted, caught, and cooked. Its needle nose weaving through the water like fine silver thread. Silently they move trying to escape their fates drawn by the lure of an easy meal, not unlike humans.  Known as an easy target for even the most amateur of fisherman and in abundance in the clear lake waters. The success of my first catch and cook defined my view of food into adulthood. The chore of having the gut and prepare a fish sets you up with a whole vision of food. It allows you to appreciate the life of the beast and consume only what you need, something that is never on the forefront of my mind when purchasing pre-packaged meats in one-kilogram portions.

 

Sitting on the rusty, rickety rails of the bridge overlooking Wallaga Lake with a float bobbing up and down in the water is one of my first food memories from the South Coast pantry. A simpler time when we could still light a fire on the lakeshore to prepare our bounty immediately. The fresh caught garfish flesh seasoned by salt water and charcoal flecks of ash. Sticks interwoven to create a grill perfuming with woody, smoky tones and the sparkle of fat dripping onto the open flames. Everything we needed to feast was at our fingertips, offered by nature. Garnishes liberally with oysters, mussels and periwinkles steamed with damp sea grass for earthiness.

Images: http://www.britannica.com/animal/garfish
http://food.ninemsn.com.au/recipes/ifish/8300787/garfish-with-potato-and-caper-salad-and-quick-pickled-cucumber

Garfish, pre and post hunt and cook

 

On rare journeys home I am reminded of how a relationship with food should be, how I want mine to be. Pure, raw and gritty. Untouched by a piece of plastic wrap or a label glowing under the fluorescent overtones of the sterile supermarkets. Our family bonds over the shucking of an oyster and filleting of a fish, raw, dirty and unpretentious. My approach to food after growing up with a South Coast pantry has been skewed and does not fit in with my current urban lifestyle. I no longer have the opportunity to forage for wild nettles to make a tart, shuck a fresh oyster, pick Christmas berries or catch and cook my own garfish, relishing those moments when I am back in the South Coast pantry.

Image:http://www.inspiredbreath.com.au

Gulaga and Wallaga Lake, the South Coast Pantry

Apple & Grape

Picking a food and wine festival worthy of our precious time is akin to Bacchanalia of the Roman times. We want cracking food, saporous wines and stories to take back to work creating invidia amongst our colleagues.

We oft become recluse within our own lives; rare to find an experience worthy of a day trip. I had fallen victim to this habit, choosing only local food and wine festivals within and easy one-hour commute from home. With the promise of abundant wine, local artisan food and music to soothe the soul we packed the car and set off on the three-hour trek over the Great Dividing Range from Brisbane to a jewel in the Granite Belt’s event calendar, the Apple & Grape Harvest Festival.

 

We were greeted with warm sun, warm smiles and warm words; a true indication of a fine day out in the country. The festival was celebrating its 50^th Birthday creating a particularly vibrant atmosphere, with generations of locals young and old, first time festival goers plus local food and wine producers coming to celebrate the best the Granite Belt has to offer.

 

Sweet melodies lure use from the bunting laden, fun-fair of Main Street into the what could only be seen as the Garden of Eden on this warm March day, Weeroona Park. Relaxing on soft grass shaded by aged fig trees and a glass of Summit Estates Sparkling Red in hand, the Multicultural Carnival & Wine Fiesta was in full swing around us.

With a wide range of local wineries, each with their own story to tell, the region was represented to the highest standard. From giddy sparkling brutes and piquant Pinot Gris, rounded off with the likes of smoky, violet Durifs and a deep ruby tawny, every palate was catered for by some of the best Australian wines available to date. Tastings are unlimited so leave the car at the hotel. The Strange Bird Alternative Wine Trail the overall theme of the day, showcasing the quirky creatives of the Granite Belt region. For the non vin de table connoisseurs’ breweries and cider makers are abundant offering fine samples of unique brews, each seeming to take on the personality of the craftsman.

 

 

The food producers are certainly not being seen as second thought after consuming too much chardonnay, but a reason to visit in their own right. The smell of slow, smoldering barbeque drew us out of the park for decadent pulled pork drowned in sweet spiced glaze matched with locally grown cabbage slaw. The cheese contingent well represented from Stanthorpe Cheese (don’t miss the Brass Monkey Blue), Eukey Highland and Bunya Cheeses, all complemented with vintages from one of the neighbouring vineyards’.

The Apple and Grape has a harmonious feel; you are taken on a personal journey around the Granite Belt. The vintners and producers are present to share their craft and experiences with you; all working together to show off what they do and just how well they do it. If you can arrive a novice and leave an expert on the terroir of the Granite Belt, how to match a Sangiovese with a fish dish and with a jar of gorgeous local pickles things are going quite well.

Dacquoise au chocolat et vin

Bread and butter, freshly grilled fish and lemon, bacon and eggs. Foods are made to compliment one another, they are also compatible with many beverages, with the main area of interest, and study, focussing on wine and food pairing. Let’s look at the pairing of two of the worlds most beloved consumables, sumptuous chocolate dessert and luscious wine.

 

Chocolate

Cacao has been part of the gastronomic scene of Europe since the 1600s, introduced by the Spaniards who had been exploring through the Amazon and encounters the Aztecs (Minifie 2012). The early 1800s saw the beginning of chocolate as we know today, with developments made in mass production. We see the development of todays most common form of the beloved treat, milk chocolate, in the 1870s in Switzerland (Minifie 2012). In order to understand how to pair chocolate with other food and beverages we must understand the science of chocolate flavour. From the moment cocoa beans are harvested the handling and processing impacts on the final taste and texture of the chocolate. Cleaning, fermenting, storing, heating, roasting and packaging all influences the final taste. The various types of raw and processed chocolates on the market today is extensive. Even with this large array we see most recipes utilising the same styles, milk, dark and white. The most common identifier of different chocolates is the cocoa content. Many cheaper chocolates have lower percentages, resulting in a thinner texture to the chocolate. Chocolates with a higher cocoa content (often referred to as dark chocolate) are often used in recipes. The bittersweet taste provides a less sugar-sweet taste to the final products.

It would be few and far between that we find someone who doesn’t enjoy the smell, taste and texture offered by at least one the almost infinite recipes which utilises chocolate as its core ingredient. From sweet to savoury, chocolate is a flexible ingredient that can be used in more than just it solid, block form.

 

Wine

A blog of this length does not allow a great in depth analysis of the history of wine, but is is suffice to say that the role of wine in historical and contemporary society is a vital one. We are faced with more varieties and styles of wines than one could ever taste in a lifetime and often rely on the suggestions of others, or the bottle label for suitable pairings. Undertaking this type of personal analysis allows us to learn further about the intense and often difficult skill of wine tasting.

Hand pouring a champagne fountain

 

Montrachet

Given the task to design a chocolate dessert for a high end restaurant created both sensations of excitement and apprehension. The first task of deciding upon and appropriate restaurant worthy of the task. After doing some local research of many dessert and wines menus, the final choice was Montrachet, located in Paddington an inner suburb of Brisbane. Montrachet has been present in the Brisbane dining scene for the past eleven years, keeping true to its classically French style service, food and beverages. The current dessert menu is minimal, keeping in line with traditional French technique infused with local flavours.

Montrachet

Montrachet

Montrachet

 

Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise

The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets (p205) defines dacquoise as “two or three layers of almond hazelnut flavoured meringue with a filling sandwiched between each layer” which can be fruit, buttercream or whipped cream. The final decision to make a chocolate filled dacquoise was solidified when reading this quote by Julia Child of the famed Mastering the Art of French Cooking (2012) referring to the debate about the traditional filling of a dacquoise layered dessert.

“since no one agrees on anything, you are quite safe in doing whatever you wish”

The Montrachet version of the dessert certainly takes this ethos and runs with it, with the flavor profile of mango and coconut, quite a distance from traditional French flavor combinations. The decision to revert back to a more classic combination of filling and meringue flavor was based on the requirements to create a chocolate dessert along with the increased range of wines to match the dessert with. Although as mentioned the task of matching chocolate and wine is not that simple.

 

To give the full experience of a dacquoise the meringue must be crisp, after cooking it needs to be left to cool completely in order to dry out. The texture of the dessert plays a key role in the pairing with wines as we see below with the group sensory analysis.

Taking Julia Child’s advice, the filling was made with the classic flavour combination of dark chocolate and roasted hazelnuts, echoing the nuttiness from the meringue. Creaminess and smoothness of the mousse is supported by a bittersweetness of the 70% cocoa chocolate.

 

Montrachet Les Cartes DesVines

In true style, choosing suitable wine from the list from the adjusted dessert is not a simple task. Restaurateurs employ the services of sommeliers to ensure the best possible matching of food and wines, a good wine list oft representing the quality of the food. The wine list featured in Montrachet is extensive, 100% French and simply amazing for a small Australian restaurant.

Picking an appropriate wine from the extensive menu was more challenging than first thought. As all of the wines are imports accessing them in local stores was not possible, and attending the restaurant to purchase a range of sample bottles would cost a small fortune. In lieu of this four bottles of wine were purchased which in theory should pair with the dessert on all levels.

Food and Wine Pairing – What are we actually looking for?

It is all well and good to know that there are classic food and wine combinations that pair well together, but when starting to form our own opinions of what works and what doesn’t where do we start? Tips from top sommeliers suggest regional cuisine and regional wines, this is not always possible, particularly down in the Southern Hemisphere. There is plenty of literature on the science of food and wine tasting and profiling, but lacking one centric reference point for matching of food and wine, likely due to personal preference and taste it is not something that can be dictated.

 

Wine Sensory

This concept is discussed in Mastering the Art and Science of Food and Wine Pairing by Harrington (2007). Harrington alludes to the Wine Sensory Pyramid (2007, p.13), with three distinct categories of elements;

1. Components: this is what we refer to as dry, sweet, crisp
2. Texture: body, tannins, oak, mouth feel all contribute to determining the texture of the wine
3. Flavour: Type and intensity, this is where the descriptors come into play. Terms used to describe the aromas of the wines such as spicy, nutty, peppery, floral.

These elements are the categories used in the sensory analysis below to give an overview of the participant’s personal perception of each of the wines.

The the olfactory senses, in other words, the aroma (Chartier 2012) plays a key role in the development of a wine profile. Aroma impacts taste through two avenues, through the nose and the mouth (Chartier year, p85).

 

Food Sensory

As with the wine sensory pyramid, Harrington (2007) has also provided the same system for food analysis in the context of food and wine pairing.

1. Components: Salty, sweet, bitter, umami, sour, hot, in all cookery the balance of these components is essential for a balanced dish
2. Texture: creamy, crisp, soft, fatty, firm. The texture is largely impacted by the cooking methods, ingredients used and construction of the final dish
3. Flavour: Type and intensity, richness, acidity, sweetness, multilayered.

 

The above chart shows the results from the dessert only tasting, both participants rated each of the elements out of 10. The results in terms of components and texture seemed to be quite consistent between both participants. This chart is useful in helping us to determine which wines will potentially match the dish.

 

Pairing Chocolate Dacquoise with Wine

“In reality, there are very few wine choices that will ruin a meal, but good choices can raise the experience of a meal from enjoyable to memorable” Harrington (2007, p4)

 

There are no food and wine pairings that everyone will love, and we need to take an approach of complimentary and contrasting flavours when suggesting suitable matches. We often approach wine and food pairing from the complimentary combinations only, however, contrasting flavour, smell and mouth feel may result in a perfect pairing. Take for example a person who does not enjoy white wines. Are they destined to never enjoy a glass of wine with a seafood meal? Gone are the days of white wine and seafood red wine with meat.

Harrington (2007) suggests the following levels of food and wine pairings

No Match: this is the category when there is a negative affect on the taste of the food and wine when consumed together.

Refreshment: this pairing occurs with a wine that acts as a palate cleanser for the food, not generally detrimental to the flavour of the wine or food

Neutral: Average wines that provide a pleasant drinking experience, often a house wine in many restaurants

Good Match: these wine and foods match on the many levels but not all, providing a sensory delight when consumed together

Synergistic Match: perfect match on all levels, the food and wine are enhanced by each other

 

As pointed out in Dornenburg (2006), master sommeliers of the worlds top restaurants often follow the regional rule, if it grows together is goes together. This is reflected by eating and drinking habits of more traditional wine producing and consuming regions such as France and Italy where food varies vastly in all regions.

 

Group Sensory Tasting

Participants

Ton Ni – chef by trade

Mark – seasoned hospitality worker, fine dining experience

 

 

Wine 1

Region: Cotes-Du-Rhone (protected origin), France

Varietal: Grenache-Syrah

Year: 2014

Vineyard: Chemin des Papes

 

Participant	Colour	Condition	Sweetness	Body	Flavour	Other
Ton Ni	Dark Ruby	Clean	Dry	Medium	Fruity, spicy	Acidic
Mark	Ruby	Clean	Medium dry	Medium	Fruity	Acidic, no oak

Paired with Dessert

Ton Ni – 6/10

Comments: made wine smoother and sweeter

Mark – 5/10

Comments: reduced acidity levels of the wine, didn’t enhance flavour of the dessert

 

Wine 2

Region: South Australia

Varietal: Grand Tawny 10 Y.O.

Year: Non Vintage

Vineyard: Reynella

 

 

Participant	Colour	Condition	Sweetness	Body	Flavour	Other
Ton Ni	Amber	Clean	Very Sweet	Full body	Spicy, nutty	Oaky, earthy
Mark	Golden Syrup Amber	Clean	Sweet, Dry	Full body, smooth	Burnt caramel, nutty, molasses	oaky

Paired with Dessert

Ton Ni – 9/10

Comments: matches well with dessert, brought out taste of the hazelnuts and almonds

Mark – 8/10

Comments: Bittersweet chocolate balanced with the sweetness of the port, tasted like sweetness had been reduced in both

 

Wine 3

Region: South Australia

Varietal: Muscat

Year: Non Vintage

Vineyard: Campbells Rutherglen

 

Participant	Colour	Condition	Sweetness	Body	Flavour	Other
Ton Ni	Amber	Clean	Sweet	Medium	Fruity	Oaky
Mark	Caramel	Clean	Sweet, fruity	Medium	Fruity, floral	Oaky

Paired with Dessert

Ton Ni – 9/10

Comments: oak compliments the nuts extremely well

Mark – 9/10

Comments: Acts as a good palate cleanser between bites of the dessert, pairs nicely with the dessert rounding out the flavours

 

Wine 4

Region: South Australia

Varietal: Semillon

Year: 2014

Vineyard: Botrytis

 

 

Participant	Colour	Condition	Sweetness	Body	Flavour	Other
Ton Ni	White, honey	Clean	Sweet, dry	Medium	Floral, fruity	Acidic
Mark	Straw	Clean	Sweet	Light	Floral, apricot	Acidic

Paired with Dessert

Ton Ni – 2/10

Comments: acidity in wine does not match with the chocolate or nuts in the dessert, makes the dessert and wine taste worse.

Mark – 3/10

Comments: the acidity was jarring against the richness of the dessert, clashed against the creaminess of the mousse.

What worked?

Post eating and drinking discussion saw a unanimous vote that the Rutherglen Muscat was the top match for the Chocolate and Hazelnut Dacquoise. The wine was complementary on the majority of the food and wine pyramids, providing a good match. The sweetness and oakiness of the wine cut through the richness of the chocolate mousse and complimented the nutty tones throughout the dessert. The smoothness of the wine acted as a palate cleanser between bites, creating an overall enjoyable eating experience.

 

References

Chartier F. 2012, Tastebuds and Molecules: the art and science of food, wine and flavor, John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken, accessed online 20 December 2015 <http://reader.eblib.com.au.ezproxy.scu.edu.au/(S(povmauhevxgnum0wxtaq03tg))/Reader.aspx?p=822043&o=188&u=2U%2fP8sXCAuPR82zZKwOqzQ%3d%3d&t=1453686141&h=4273DE626AF5154476654C7C6A43C66D3A54ADF3&s=22746388&ut=606&pg=1&r=img&c=-1&pat=n&cms=-1&sd=1#>

Child J. and Beck S. 2012, Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume two.

Dornenburg A. 2006, “What to Drink with What you eat, Food and Beverage Pairing 101, Bullfinch Press, New York, accessed online 12 January 2016

<https://scu.rl.talis.com/items/603AB58B-127D-593F-E9A4-467B9C023F21.html?referrer=%2Flists%2F6F973B20-6896-D5EB-A8B2-FC654730C734.html%23item-603AB58B-127D-593F-E9A4-467B9C023F21&gt;

Goldstein D. and Mintz S. 2015, The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, Oxford University Press, accessed online 20 December 2015

<https://books.google.com.au/books?id=R1bCBwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false>

 

Harrington R. 2007, Food and Wine Pairing: A Sensory Experience, Wiley, accessed online 15 December 2015

<http://media.johnwiley.com.au/product_data/excerpt/74/04717940/0471794074.pdf>

 

Minifie B. 2012, Chocolate, Cocoa and Confectionery: Science and Technology, Springer Science & Business Media, accessed online 12 January 2016

<https://books.google.com.au/books?id=zp8oBgAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false&gt;

Montrachet 2015, <http://montrachet.com.au>

The Taste of Science

Since man created fire we have been observing, analysing and understanding the physical and chemical reactions during the preparation and cooking of food. From the most primitive of milled grain creating the first flour to the array we see on our supermarket shelves in contemporary society, we can track the new developments and understand of reactions throughout the cookery process and how to exploit them.

Throughout cookery of the some of the most seemingly basic foods we consume today we can see the physical and chemical processes live in action, when they work and when they don’t, as discovered during this study. We will be using a brunch classic, eggs benedict with sourdough and butter to demonstrate.

Isaac and Smith (1991, p59) identify some of the reasons why we alter the native state of foods;

• Preservation of foods
• Make food safe to consume
• Increased shelf life
• Make foods more palatable by improving smell, taste and texture
• Creating an increased variety of foods to satisfy ever demanding changes on food patterns, fads and tastes.

Although most of us understand cookery methods (boiling, roasting, frying) we do not often further consider the physical and chemical changes that are occurring during these processes beyond what we see.

The premise of this task seemed quite simple upon first glance, sure I can make poached eggs, hollandaise sauce and butter. I have tried to bake bread before so how hard could sourdough actually be? This mindset was the worst possible approach to this task, Murphies Law certainly paid me a visit. It took more than one attempt of both the sourdough and hollandaise sauce to get the correct combination of physical and chemical reactions resulting in a successful, complete and most importantly tasty dish.

Through this process of making the eggs benedict, we are exposed to several food science manifestations. The growth of food industry over the past few decades has seen and increased interest in food science and molecular gastronomy. The term molecular gastronomy is much more prevalent in todays foodie, blogger, cheffy world but what does is actually refer to in the realm of food science?  Gisslen (2010, p79) suggests molecular gastronomy is the “selective use of technology and non standard ingredients to help enhance flavours, aromas, appearance and textures of natural foods”. But is there a difference between food science and molecular gastronomy? Herve This (2005) suggests that there is difference between the two seemingly similar concepts, with food science focussing on the properties of food and molecular gastronomy is the understanding the effects of cooking. Let’s look at the effects of cooking further throughout the process of making eggs benedict.

Who came first the chicken or the egg?

Eggs are involved in so many aspects of cookery and an essential part of many cuisines. Used in all aspects of sweet and savoury cookery, eggs are seen as a complete protein (Rombauer and Becker 1975, p2). The various uses of eggs in cookery make them the perfect medium for studying food science. During the process of making this dish eggs were used in two elements, using different cookery methods leading to different reactions and results.

We can see the process of denaturation occurring through the poaching of eggs. Scope (1993, p95) suggests denaturation is the destruction of the tertiary structure of a protein molecule and the formation of random polypeptide chains, the strains are aggregated physically (via thermal heat) and become tangled. The result is product which cannot denature any further. Mirsky and Pauling (1936, p440) support this concept, identifying that denaturation is defined by the change in solubility, i.e. we have taken the egg in its raw state, applied heat agitation causing the coagulation of the protein strands, creating its own skin, rendering it no longer soluble.

Egg as a protein in its native state.

Poaching is the cooking of food in a liquid below boiling point (Isaac and Smith 1991, p62). McGee (2004, p84) provides a poetic description of the process of protein coagulation, taking the liquid raw egg to its cooked solid state.

“when we heat the egg, all its molecules move faster and faster, collide with each other harder and harder, and eventually break the bonds that hold the long protein chains in their compact, folded shape. The proteins unfold, tangle with each other, and bond to each other into a kind of three-dimensional network.”

Here we have a short clip of the raw eggs becoming submerged in the poaching liquid, in this case simmering water and white vinegar. We can see the immediate coagulation of the whites, taking them from the liquid state to the denatured cooked state, no longer a soluble product.

The final product after the coagulation of protein strands is the perfectly poached egg, with the yolk still in a liquid state, but the whites firmed nicely.

The use of egg yolk only in the making of the hollandaise – butter emulsified into egg yolks (Ruhlman 2009) – will provides another example of the versatility of the egg. We again use the application of heat to physically transform from its native state to the desired taste, texture and consistency, but in a very different method. Further explanation and of the emulsification process is explained later, during the egg yolk stage of the sauce we gently apply indirect heat through the use of a double boiler method (simply a bowl over a pot of simmering water, but never touching the water). The heat thickens the yolk, vinegar and pepper mixture, creating a creamy texture which can be ‘ribboned’ when the whisk in pulled through it. Overheating at this stage will cause cause the eggs to coagulate, or what we know as ‘curdle’, the separation of solids and liquids (see image below as the first attempt of the sauce and the resulting curdle), this is the sauce breaking and often this is the point of no return. As Mirsky and Pauling stated, once denatured the product cannot be returned to it native state, so time to start again!

 

Flour Power.

Carbohydrates are oft seen as bad for the human body and health, however they play an essential role in providing energy for the body and breaking down of proteins. In the realm of food science carbohydrates can perform a multitude of functionalities including thickening, emulsification, suspension stabilisation, mouth feel and crispiness (Embuscado 2014, p2). Sourdough has its traditions dating back to Ancient Egypt in 1500 BC (kitchenproject.com, n.d), a society which was keen on fermentation with the production of basic beer like beverages also. In the process of making sourdough we utilise flour in two different ways.

Fermentation, the start of something great.

“Fermentation is a process in which microorganisms, in the absences of oxygen, generate energy by oxidising carbohydrates and related compounds” (Josephsen & Jespersen p27)

This was the most arduous part of creating this dish. It takes time, patience and undying attention. The starter is to be fed on a similar scale as a family house pet, and kept at the right temperature (somewhat difficult to do during a Queensland summer) in order to develop the right flavours and developed a natural yeast. There was a failed first attempt at the instant mashed potato method of creating a starter, just resulting a in wet mash, with no signs of any yeast development. Disposing of the potato flake method and reverting to the classic flour, water and (rice)malt extract successfully created a sourdough starter. The method used took about a week to fully develop, but the distinct yeast scent had started only a few days into the process, a good sign that fermentation was transpiring. Daily observation of the starter saw an obvious increase in activity from the forming of bubbles on the top (sugars converting to gas), indicating the culture was alive. With each feeding and refreshment of the starter the sour smell continued to strengthen, and the bubbles more resilient.

The stages of the making the sourdough starter.

Making the Sourdough Loaf.

The second use of flour is the making of the bread dough. This process utilises flour as the stabiliser and providing texture, flavour and crust. The physical process of coalescing occurs during this process, or what we know as kneading of the dough. We are bringing together the flour and starter culture to form our dough. By this stage the starter culture has developed a wild yeast, so the need for commercial dry yeast is not required. Bread is one of the most basic staple foods in the world, and after attempting this sourdough recipe one can appreciate the hard work involved in producing such high quality loaves consistently. The mixing and kneading process is an essential step in making bread. If the dough is not kneaded enough, the gluten in the flour is not activated, leaving the bread dense with a tight crumb.

Below we have a clip of the kneading process of the dough with two different recipes, the first is using the failed attempt at the potato starter, the second with the successful traditional flour based starter. The first dough failed in spectacular fashion with no rise when proved, or dextrinisation – due to starch modification (Tomasik 2003, p123) – occurring during baking time. The second attempt which used the suitably fermented starter resulted in a stunning crisp, brown, crust and the what seemed like the makings of a proper sourdough crumb inside the loaf (maybe a tad under kneaded). There was not quite enough rise, so the crumb was still slightly dense but well and truly on its way to a real sourdough loaf, with flavour and crust a familiar taste. There are certainly more elements involved in making sourdough from the start than anticipated and getting them close to right was certainly a learning curve in the kitchen!

Proving

Successful Crust

Dextrinisation

Sourdough Success

Sourdough fresh from the oven

Butter Makes it all Better.

Gurr, Harwood and Frayne (2008, p1) define lipids as “a chemically heterogeneous group of substances having in common the property of insolubility in water, but solubility in non-aqueous solvents such as chloroform, hydrocarbons or alcohols”, or more commonly known as fat. During this process we liberally used butter. The first step was to make the butter itself, using two ingredients cream and salt. As a first time butter maker, the process of beater butter is quick and effective. Here we have a clip of the process (which in real time took approximately 10 minutes). We can see the point at which the physical separation of the fat occurs into butter and buttermilk, due to aggressive agitation.

The butter created is used in the final stage of completing our eggs benedict, completing the hollandaise sauce. At this stage we are looking at the emulsification process between our thickened eggs yolk and vinegar mixture and our melted (handmade) butter. In keeping with tradition of the rest of the cookery, it two attempts to make the sauce. The first attempt saw the splitting and curdling of liquids from solids when the butter was added to the eggs, resulting in vigorous whisking in attempt to coalesce, this was to no avail. The second attempt was much more successful, resulting in the perfect emulsification of eggs and melted butter to a thick and creamy sauce. The process of emulsification of lipids is a common cookery technique, not limited to the making hollandaise, think along the lines of mayonnaise with the use of oil.

Failed attempt, sauce split

Successful Hollandaise

The End Result.

Over four weeks of kitchen preparation time went into this attempt to make the classic eggs benedict. The end result was a preservative free, homemade delicious meal. The perfect execution of a denatured, coagulated egg combined with timely fermentation and dextrinisation of the sourdough all topped with a delightful emulsification of egg yolk, acid and lipids. The physical changes that occur from these kitchen basics is one of the most favoured brunch (or anytime) dishes due to the overall mouth feel (creaminess and umami from the hollandaise), flavour developed from the sourdough starts and crispiness of the dextrinisation of the crust and the perfectly soft cooked egg whites with the velvety, shiny yellowy yolk inside the poached egg.

Food for thought, food for the future

Over the past decades the human population has experienced unprecedented growth and as a result society has made advances in political, environmental, economic, social and technological realms. The importance of the role food plays in the sustainability of the world’s population is universally acknowledged and accepted as fact. Without food the human population will fade and eventually cease to exist. The issue falls within food production. How do we manage population growth at the same time as preserving limited farming land, finite resources and traditional methods?

The level of food security around the globe varies, but there is a general consensus that if population growth continues on its projected path we will exhaust our supply. There is now the need to secure food sources for future generations. A proposed solution to this is the increased production and consumption of genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This essay will aim to identify the current global and national context of GMOs in food production and the impact on contemporary society and future generations.

Food is essential for all life on the planet, be it a fish in the ocean, a tree in the Amazon or a human living in a developed urban centre. The increase in population, personal wealth and consumerism has lead to a threefold issue within the global context. Godfray, Beddington et al (2010, p. 812) have identified the challenges of “matching the rapidly changing demand for food from a larger and more affluent population to its supply; do so in ways that are environmentally and socially sustainable; and ensure that the world’s poorest people are no longer hungry” as the key areas of stress in food production and development for the future.

Maslow’s hierarchy of needs places biological and physiological as the most essential basic needs humans require. Within this category is breathing, water and food. Within the current global context 12.7% of the population live on or below the poverty line, just $1.90 per day (Worldbank 2012). As a society we fail to provide the most basic needs of Maslow’s hierarchy for everyone. There is now pressure from society to rectify these issues and provide food for the neediest around the world, whilst at the same time maintaining sustainable farming and production practices and safeguarding the future of food production on a global scale.

There are two sides to the argument. Firstly, GMOs are the way of the future; they will ensure food is adequately provided for the increasing global population. Secondly; traditional farming and production methods should be maintained for the health and longevity of society and the farming industry around the world.

 

Food Security

Food security affects each and every person on the planet. The importance to secure food production and stocks for future generations is at the forefront of much international and Australian policy debate and attention. The definition provided by the Food and Agriculture Organisation (1996) states;

“Food security is achieved when all people at all times have physical and economic access to sufficient, safe and nutritious food to meet dietary needs and food preferences for an active and healthy life.”

This is currently not being achieved on a global or national scale, and this is a major issue facing the international community. The lack of sufficient food has a direct impact on the health, well being and livelihoods of all people around the world (McDonald 2010, p2).

With a population edging towards 24 million (Australian Bureau of Statistics, 2015) and a stable political environment, places Australia within the top ten of the global food security index (2015). Australia produces enough food to feed 60 million people each day, but we still face issues of poor nutrition in low socio-economic regions. The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council (2010) has identified Australia key strengths relevant to building food security:

• Strong, successful agricultural lineage in harsh farming conditions, currently one of the top producers in extremely dry conditions, variable climate and poor quality soil
• Ability to deliver on technological advancements
• Agricultural, human health and nutrition research and development ranks amongst the highest in the world
• Climate change conscious and active in the international cause

The building pressure of food security globally and nationally will pose new challenges to the international community. The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council 2010) identify the following areas as the most prominent increase in demand:

• Supply Chain improvements and resilience; efficiency in food production, processing and distribution and responsibility in purchasing and consumption to reduce wastage and minimise costs.
• Advancements in food production developments; Research and the delivery of innovations to underpin productivity growth in the food sector, to meet human health needs and bring improvements in food processing.
• Flexibility and responsiveness in regulation to ensure rapid delivery of innovations to the food value chain.

The Food Supply Chain

Food security is inherently linked to the food supply chain. Without the production, processing, transportation and distribution of foods, the global situation may become much worse than it currently is. Wells and Edwards (2004; p17) identify the food supply chain as;

“A spectrum of activities from agricultural production of bulk food commodities and ingredients through fresh produce to manufacturing, distribution, sales and consumption. It includes fresh and processed food products, ingredients and beverages”.

 

The Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry (2012) conducted a study into the resilience and effectiveness of the existing food supply chain. This study, conducted by Sapere Research Group, determined the existing food chain has a high degree of resilience on a national, regional and local level but that supply and demand of the future will decrease this.

The question has been posed over recent years as the sustainability and reliability of the global food chain, with unprecedented levels of food contamination and food shortages impacting the market. As the population grows and food production doubles to cope with demand, will the supply chain remain stable? There is a concern amongst the international community that, the only solution to meet the increasing demand for food is to produce more of it in shorter time frames. This could be solved through the introduction of more genetically modified foods.

 

Genetically Modified Foods

At its most basic definition genetic modification is isolating a gene from one plant source and pasting into another source. The World Health Organisation (2015) defines genetically modified foods (GMFs) as;

“Foods derived from organisms whose genetic material (DNA) has been modified in a way that does not occur naturally, e.g. through the introduction of a gene from a different organism”.

The increased use of genetically modified foods in the future is a certainty. Currently there is only the use of plant based modification, the World Health Organisation has indicated that genetically modified animals are likely. Most genetically modified crops have been developed with the purpose of increasing resilience to disease, tolerance of herbicides and to increase yield. To achieve food security for the growing population genetically modified foods is the most likely solution. This is certainly a feasible option if conducted in a way that is safe for the consumer and fair for farmers.

Although food biotechnology has been present within cultures for many years (fermentation being one of the oldest processes in making bread, beer and soy sauce) the first introduction of genetically modified foods to the global market was in 1983. The result was a tobacco plant resistant to antibiotics (Monsanto 2014) and later the Flavr Savr tomato, which essentially did not rot.

Genetically modified foods are produced to meet a number of key challenges facing international and domestic communities. The underpinning reasons for scientific advancements in food biotechnology and genetics is to (The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council 2010);

• Improve water use and management in agriculture.
• Tackle the problem of soil nutrition and reduce the reliance on high energy requirements for fertiliser production.
• To ensure sustainable management of the natural resource base.
• To accelerate advances through new plant, livestock and breeding strategies.

All of these points underline the main objective which is to provide enough food for the growing human populations. Parehk (2004) suggests that the rapid urbanisation and industrialisation, impact of climate change on water and air quality and increasing computer technology leading to a simplified supply chain are core contributors. Therefore, supporting the need to increase the rate at which genetically modified foods are produced and an increase in market presence. The pretence for developing genetically modified organisms is to take the best from one plant and enhance another, in order to create sustainable food supplies for future generations.

Genetically modified seeds have been proven to increase crop yields whilst reducing the use of limited natural resources. They are also a vessel in which additional nutrition can be injected into the food chain. The introduction of genetically modified foods such as soy, corn, cotton and wheat has strengthened the food supply chain and somewhat safeguarded food security for future generations.

 

Debate Surrounding Genetically Modified Foods

The role of genetically modified foods on the global food industry is polarising. As a cohesive society we are facing climate change, slowing growth of primary industries, degradation of land and soil quality and a growing population. Traditional farming and production methods will simply not meet the needs of the future (Parehk 2004).

Although the increased production of food may seem like the most obvious answer, there is a strong cohort against the use of genetically modified food within the supply chain. The key areas of concern raised in the genetically modified food debate are in relation to treatment of farmers by transnational biotechnology corporations such as Monsanto, the side effects on the human body, impacts on the natural environment, safety of the products and of course the ethics of the entire process.

Agricultural & farm management practices

Monsanto has been accused in the past of mistreatment, intimidation and threats against farmers who have the authority to use their patented genetically modified seeds and some who have indirectly used seeds without permission from the company (otherwise known as cross pollination). Traditional farming methods have seen the planting, harvest and cleaning of seeds for centuries. The introduction of Monsanto patented seeds has seen a stop to this time-old method, with farmers who purchase genetically modified seeds required to purchase new from Monsanto each year. This has impacted on the bottom line for both farmers and Monsanto, with the latter faring better than the former.

Monsanto states that only nine cases have been to trial in the past 18 years, all of which resulted in their favour. The main issue being farmers not paying for new seeds in the new season. Monsanto has indicated that “Through our own actions or through third-parties” they find farmers who are not sticking to their purchase agreements. This statement alone infers some type of power and intimidation over the farmers who purchase the seeds.

Monsanto is a business that should be paid for goods and services provided, they do invest large quantities of money into research of agriculture and ways to create a more sustainable food supply chain for the future. The issues raised have always been in relation to the way in which they treat their farmers and the management of farms which use their products.

Effects on human health

One of the common issues raised in the genetically modified debate is the risk these products pose to human health. Monsanto has been at the forefront to advise that there is no negative impact from consuming genetically modified foods, however the rapid rate of advancement makes it difficult to be so certain, and without human testing there is no real certainty. Many claim that genetically modified foods cause the body to be more susceptible to allergies and may create new ones. Greenpeace (2011) provides the example of genetically modified peas produced in Australia, which caused an allergic reaction in mice, and found the mice to be more sensitive to other food allergies. The effects of herbicides on health has also been at the forefront of the genetically modified discussion due to concerns it can impact on hormones and how they behave in the body.

 Impact on ecosystems

Ecosystems are complex (Parehk 2004) and concerns have been raised about the possible effect on introducing new plants. This is not limited to impacts on other plants. Since the introduction of Monsanto genetically modified seeds, there has been a decline in both monarch butterflies and honey bees (Monsanto 2014), both crucial to the natural reproduction of plants and crops in traditional farming practices. Monsanto has implemented programs to counteract the impact their products have had on the feeding and breeding environments of both species.

Genetically modified seeds developed by Monsanto have been successful in reducing water consumption on farms (ideal for farming regions in Australia, the driest continent). Certainly a positive step in the right direction for sustainable farming domestically.

Food Safety

There is little evidence of harm caused by eating genetically modified foods in saying this there has been limited information made available to the public about the actual products generated by Monsanto. Food Standards Australia New Zealand (2013) state that genetically modified foods must undergo a safety assessment and pass approval before sale. It is also compulsory to identify genetically modified foods on all food labelling, this is not a consistent practice on a global scale. Safety is hotly debated with many anti-genetically modified campaigners, such as March Against Monsanto, producing very consistent arguments against the products and the damage they do to general health, farmers and the environment.

Ethical practices

The ethical practices of Monsanto are at the forefront of anti campaigners. Some aspects of the organisation lack transparency and accountability for actions. Another ethical dilemma with the increase of genetically modified foods is the ‘ownership’ of plants. Tietel and Wilson (2010, p3) state “a handful of giant corporations have placed patents on food plants giving the exclusive control over that food”. Monsanto have effectively created a monopoly on food and own anywhere between 80% to 95% of genetically modified crops. This has lead to essentially the entire globe relying on one corporation for future food security, not an ideal situation to be in for such an important issue.

International and Domestic Regulatory Bodies and Policy

Although Monsanto has the monopoly on the production, it still must follow protocols set to international and domestic standards. The Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nation (FAO), the Intergovernmental Task Force on Foods Derived from Biotechnology and the World Health Organisation are instrumental in implementing and monitoring protocols for producers of genetically modified foods. The task force has enforced some codes of conduct for genetically modified producers, it is mandatory for all foods to be tested for allergic properties, all safety assessments are case-by-case and post market reviews are to be further researched. Unfortunately, this task force has been dissolved, leaving a critical role in the hands of various departments.

On a national level, Australia implements its own protocols and standards via Food Standards Australia New Zealand. This organisation is responsible for the approval of all genetically modified foods in Australia and New Zealand, prior to them being available in the market. The concepts and protocols have been derived from the aforementioned task force risk analysis principles. The primary purpose of the FSANZ (2013) being:

• Identification of new hazards as a result of modification
• Assess potential risk with products in the context of their intended use
• Determine any new conditions are needed for safe use

FSANZ regulates all food labelling. It is mandatory to label all genetically modified foods and products in Australia and New Zealand. There are some exceptions to this however. Restaurants are exempt from identifying the use of genetically modified foods, along with some products containing very minimal traces. To date, there has been no knock backs on any application of genetically modified foods by FSANZ.

 

Corporate Social Responsibility, Economic & Environmental Implications

Monsanto’s approach to corporate social responsibility is very prevalent. Throughout the vast majority of marketing and corporate documents, they identify the ways in which they are actively enhancing food security, increasing effective water usage and developing new sustainable practices. Monsanto positions themselves in a very positive light and is very effective at setting a tone, if we didn’t have Monsanto we would not be able to feed the world. This monopoly attitude is a dangerous attribute of the corporation, and fear mongering to a certain degree. Genetically modified foods are important for future food security, but awarding all of the power to one corporation is not the way to move forward in a sustainable manner.

Meeting food security is one of the costliest endeavours in contemporary society. The estimated cost of feeding the worlds neediest is approximately $30 billion per year (New York Times 2008) and this funding needs to be sourced from somewhere, the lack of which is impacting the ability to effectively feed the current population and will continue to be struggle as growth continues. Using a sole provider to secure food for the future will greatly impact on the bottom line of Monsanto, as a business they are more concerned with profits than making a difference for free.

The main issue that would arise from this food production model is a monopoly. This economic structure does not work, competition is required. Putting all trust in one corporation is not the way to secure sustainable food sources for the future. There is the potential to develop such unattainable farming practices that traditional methods will have no chance at competing. Although genetically modified foods have a place in food security they are not the absolute solution.

The reliance solely genetically modified food is a potential issue we face as a society. If we can produce more food using less finite resources, this could only be seen as a way to ensure food security. However, we must also take into account the farming and agricultural history that is embedded in so many global and domestic communities. For all farmers to purchase Monsanto brand seeds would create monotone farming across the globe, certainly impacting the food supply chain.

In the ecological sense we also run the risk of removing all natural development with food. Organisms have, since the start of time, been developing and advancing in their own ways. There is a point when we may take modifications too far to integrate into the natural environment without negative affects. Taking the destruction of the monarch butterflies habitat as an example, measures need to be implemented to ensure this does not happen again in the future.

Although in an ideal world everyone would have their own piece of land to farm their own organic produce and rear animals, this is never going to be the case. In order to achieve food security for future generations there is the need to adopt food modification and new production techniques for farming and food production. This however cannot be effectively achieved through the monopolisation of the industry by corporations such as Monsanto, they must simply be one part of the food supply chain, not in control of the entire system.

Go nuts for donuts.

Source: Go nuts for donuts.

No Reservations needed at Paladar Los Amigos

No Reservations is a food series produced by The Travel Channel, it is written and hosted by American celebrity chef and author Anthony Bourdain. The focus of this piece will be on the episode ‘Cuba’, a part of the culinary world infrequently documented but extremely fascinating. No Reservations could be placed into the “tour-educative” category of cooking program as identified by Strange, with the focus on how food is symbolic within the Cuban culture rather than the act of preparing recipes for the camera. Throughout the episode Bourdain uses a variety of dishes to symbolise the societal classes and interesting history and people of the nation.

The often brazen host takes to the streets of Havana, giving the audience an insight into the foodways of the modern-day Communist capital city. The rapport Bourdain builds with his audience is a complex and not always favourable one, the reaction to the filming of this episode in Cuba brought along its controversies, but its the approach of the host that makes the episode so enthralling to watch and effective at displaying food as a symbol of Cuban culture. Embargoes on fresh produce have meant a lack of gastronomic development as opposed to the other islands in Caribbean. The food displayed in the episode could have been explained at the denotative level of sustenance, for example the dish of chicken, rice and beans may be seen by an outsider of the culture as basic sustenance or just a plate of food with no importance, however Bourdain’s presentation and attitude towards the simple staple meal is taken much further to a level of significance within the Cuban culture. His choice of dining companion, Fidel Castro photographer Roberto Salas, suggests “its the best”, putting a humane element to the meal thus creating authenticity for the viewing audience and devoting the myth that Cuban food is nothing extraordinary.

What this episode does well is two main things, it identifies the reasons for the lack of awareness of Cuban cuisine within western cultures and it promotes food in a new light, creating a new symbolic meaning for the viewers. Due to the political history of Cuba over the past 60 years, very little has been documented in film to show the real side of the nation other than tourist resorts. Bourdain achieves through dining in state-run restaurants and paladars, restaurants operated out of private homes by self-employed. The comparison between the two dining styles allows the viewer to become empathetic with the current gastronomic situation in the community and understand the value and meaning of food in the culture. The visual representation of the food and atmosphere within the paladar is certainly in a more positive light that the state-run restaurants, although the host assures the audience at the beginning of the episode that it has nothing to do with Communism. The imagery is very effective at creating meaning behind the food served throughout the episode. We are taken on the journey from the market to the kitchen of Elizabeth owner of Paladar Los Amigos, visually providing a journey with the food, the way the local food community has managed to work around the regiment society which the live as opposed to just plate of grilled pork put together by a chef in a studio.

One aspect of the show that may turn away some viewers is the opinions of the host, which at times can be harsh. Such as the experience of being at a baseball game, a major pastime of Cubans. Bourdain can be quick to pass judgement in things that may not be up to his standard, such as lack of beer at a baseball game, which in turn is a positive for most of the local community rather than a negative.

Cuba is not known as a food destination, the food consumed by the locals is to be considered basic at best with rationing still enforced by the government. What this show does is create a sense of warmth and value to the simple meal of roast chicken, rice and beans (so good Bourdain goes back for more). The visual imagery used throughout the episode highlights the simplicity of the food but emphasises the quality experience associated with it, the sounds, the packed paladars, the colours, the haze of cigar smoke just above head height. Although the show does not contain any actual cooking by the host, the food has the ability to make you want to board the next flight to Havana and dive into a chipped bowl of pork and rice from Elizabeth down at Paladar Los Amigos.

Sample the best in Bangalow

Sitting here in the gentle warmth of the North Coast sunshine surrounded by people who love food, craft beer, wines and those who produce it is inspiring. This is my first visit to the Sample Food Festival in Bangalow, NSW and upon downing a Stone & Wood Garden Ale and four types of salami (from the good folks at Salumi Australia) within the first 15 minutes I am impressed.

There is great array of local producers, suppliers and eateries on display with everything either $5 or $10, no surprises, this is one of the trademarks of the festival. This also means no loose change and I can get 12 items for my $60 budget, which in my opinion is pretty good for a food festival where I normally drop a quick $100 and looking for the ATM.

From local organic coffee to Indian and celebrity chef cookoffs the day is promos if to deliver on all aspects. With plenty of table and blanket spots to chill in the sun, it meets all criteria of a family friendly, local driven event.

Further details to come, I need another Garden Ale to wash calm my tastebuds after a piece of extremely spicy chili salami (pictured below)…

Periwinkles by the Lake

The salty waves are gently lapping up against the smooth slate of Flat Rock, drowned out by the singing of the bellbirds, bowers and footsteps of other critters scurrying along the floor of the ragged bush land. The fire smouldering, making the surrounding stone too hot to walk on, we pretend we are atop of Gulaga back in the Dreamtime brimming with lava, steam and ash daring one another to get closer to flame with each lap around the pit pushing ourselves towards the edge of danger each time, letting our imaginations run wild after too much time in the sun. Dad and uncles are wading in the water about ankle-deep, we know that when we come to Flat Rock we are in for a treat, a secret treat just for the boys.

“Come here boys, come down see what we got!” The booming voice of our elder rang through the trees, scaring birds off into the distance, but to us could only mean one thing the ultimate treat was in his possession. “Periwinkles!” we all rejoiced in unison. The mound of tiny shells adorning the lakeside rocks like a pile of diamonds glistening in the late afternoon sun. The candy of the southern saltwater lakes, a special treat for us when we have been behaving ourselves, oysters and mussels for everyday dinner, periwinkles for the special occasions only.

“Put them in the tin uncle”, “How many did you get uncle”, “Did anyone bring any pins along? How do we eat them?”  like a chorus of young boys singing in rounds we fire off the questions eager to be the first one to taste the sweet flesh of the treat about to be offered to us. There is no time to waste, the sooner they are boiled and devoured the better. We are offered some oysters to keep us quiet while our little friends are bubbling away on the fire, uncle removing them gently from the rocks and leveraging open their protective casing fresh saltwater running down his arm. No one has found a pearl yet but the anticipation is there each time waiting for that moment of glory but for now just the sweet taste of the gooey flesh will suffice I like it to slide straight down into my belly, the salty lake water making it like a water slide down my throat. It wets my appetite, the sound of the water boiling and the periwinkles hitting the sides of the used can on the fire like a little drum making its own beat, my taste buds dancing along. Not long until popcorn of the lake enters my mouth, taking a safe refuge from the ferocity of the boiling water.

“Hands out boys be careful they are hot” uncle stresses as he drains the winkles onto the hot stone around the fire, the steam drifts away like spirit dreams disappearing into the blood-red afternoon sky.  I pick it up tenderly as to not burn my hands or even worse drop my little treasure and waste what we have been waiting all day for. This is the first time I have the get my own meat from the tiny intricate shell, I have seen elders do it with ease how hard could it be really? Just put the pin in and twist and pull, just put the pin in and twist and pull… I can get the pin in but my little friend doesn’t want to come out of his home, all the big cousins have already had three or four each and I haven’t even had one, just twist and pull. Success! My little grey worm is dangling precariously on the edge of my miniature dagger, this is it my big moment to join the men. Finally the salty and slightly slimy winkle hits my tongue, the meat event sweeter than ever before, I can feel the grittiness between my teeth with each bite, a testament to the hard work I have put in to be worthy of this reward saved for the men of the family, finally setting me as their equal.

Cooking Cambodia Part One

 After the long traverse from Bangkok we arrived in the unique, vibrant town of Siem Reap. The brief time I spent in Cambodia has been one of the highlights of all my travel experiences. It encompasses everything I love to experience in life, good food, drinks and people. The town of Siem Reap has lot going for it, after a party, it has Pub Street, after history, it has Angkor Wat, after a real local food experience, it has the Old Market (sun-dried snake meat included) The town is vibrant with people, colour and sounds at all times of the day.

It seemed the perfect destination to give the local Khmer cuisine a spin. Khmer is a fascinating culture that has been subject to much turmoil over the years, facing coups, genocide and corruption. The history is obvious within modern Cambodian society, its effects lasting years. The poverty is obvious and it is important as a visitor to this beautiful country to respect what has happened and help where we can and avoiding participating in activities that negatively impact on its citizens. In order to do this, I went to a cooking class on the infamous Pub Street located in the heart of Siem Reap. Full of bars, restaurants and general tourist traps, there is always something going on and you can get an Angkor Draught for a mere 35 cents, it a place to have lots of fun with travellers and locals alike.

We selected Temple as the location for our class, setting us back a hefty  $10 for three courses and one on one tutors. We were paired with a lovely young teacher called Nob who had moved to Siem Reap to study business and earn a wage to support her family who still lived in a rural area. Hearing her story and dreams for the future made the connection even stronger, taking the step out of the family region to make a better life for oneself is something I have faced in my own life. The conversation flowed easily and well beyond the hour lesson and what was required of our kind-hearted host. In the midst of the conversing we actually did some cooking, making three traditional Khmer dishes. Chicken salad in banana flower, Khmer curry and a glutinous pudding (think sago like). All delicious, flavoursome and easy to prepare, the main thing I walked away with is cook curries on water and add a ladle of fresh milk at the end for creaminess, revelation! But I guess when adding copious amounts of coconut milk, stock and cream to dish isn’t viable you learn to adapt, which is something the Cambodians know inside out.

The dishes were fresh and lively, with all produce collected from the Old Market, the heart of culinary tourism in Siem Reap. The flavours of turmeric, ginger and coconut prevalent throughout, but this intensity of flavour only matched by the smells wafting in from the street. The sound of the traditional Khmer music tinkling so softly in the back ground completes the scene creating the authentic experience, something that can oft be lost in the haze of mass tourism.