The Taste of Science

Since man created fire we have been observing, analysing and understanding the physical and chemical reactions during the preparation and cooking of food. From the most primitive of milled grain creating the first flour to the array we see on our supermarket shelves in contemporary society, we can track the new developments and understand of reactions throughout the cookery process and how to exploit them.

Throughout cookery of the some of the most seemingly basic foods we consume today we can see the physical and chemical processes live in action, when they work and when they don’t, as discovered during this study. We will be using a brunch classic, eggs benedict with sourdough and butter to demonstrate.

Isaac and Smith (1991, p59) identify some of the reasons why we alter the native state of foods;

• Preservation of foods
• Make food safe to consume
• Increased shelf life
• Make foods more palatable by improving smell, taste and texture
• Creating an increased variety of foods to satisfy ever demanding changes on food patterns, fads and tastes.

Although most of us understand cookery methods (boiling, roasting, frying) we do not often further consider the physical and chemical changes that are occurring during these processes beyond what we see.

The premise of this task seemed quite simple upon first glance, sure I can make poached eggs, hollandaise sauce and butter. I have tried to bake bread before so how hard could sourdough actually be? This mindset was the worst possible approach to this task, Murphies Law certainly paid me a visit. It took more than one attempt of both the sourdough and hollandaise sauce to get the correct combination of physical and chemical reactions resulting in a successful, complete and most importantly tasty dish.

Through this process of making the eggs benedict, we are exposed to several food science manifestations. The growth of food industry over the past few decades has seen and increased interest in food science and molecular gastronomy. The term molecular gastronomy is much more prevalent in todays foodie, blogger, cheffy world but what does is actually refer to in the realm of food science?  Gisslen (2010, p79) suggests molecular gastronomy is the “selective use of technology and non standard ingredients to help enhance flavours, aromas, appearance and textures of natural foods”. But is there a difference between food science and molecular gastronomy? Herve This (2005) suggests that there is difference between the two seemingly similar concepts, with food science focussing on the properties of food and molecular gastronomy is the understanding the effects of cooking. Let’s look at the effects of cooking further throughout the process of making eggs benedict.

Who came first the chicken or the egg?

Eggs are involved in so many aspects of cookery and an essential part of many cuisines. Used in all aspects of sweet and savoury cookery, eggs are seen as a complete protein (Rombauer and Becker 1975, p2). The various uses of eggs in cookery make them the perfect medium for studying food science. During the process of making this dish eggs were used in two elements, using different cookery methods leading to different reactions and results.

We can see the process of denaturation occurring through the poaching of eggs. Scope (1993, p95) suggests denaturation is the destruction of the tertiary structure of a protein molecule and the formation of random polypeptide chains, the strains are aggregated physically (via thermal heat) and become tangled. The result is product which cannot denature any further. Mirsky and Pauling (1936, p440) support this concept, identifying that denaturation is defined by the change in solubility, i.e. we have taken the egg in its raw state, applied heat agitation causing the coagulation of the protein strands, creating its own skin, rendering it no longer soluble.

Egg as a protein in its native state.

Poaching is the cooking of food in a liquid below boiling point (Isaac and Smith 1991, p62). McGee (2004, p84) provides a poetic description of the process of protein coagulation, taking the liquid raw egg to its cooked solid state.

“when we heat the egg, all its molecules move faster and faster, collide with each other harder and harder, and eventually break the bonds that hold the long protein chains in their compact, folded shape. The proteins unfold, tangle with each other, and bond to each other into a kind of three-dimensional network.”

Here we have a short clip of the raw eggs becoming submerged in the poaching liquid, in this case simmering water and white vinegar. We can see the immediate coagulation of the whites, taking them from the liquid state to the denatured cooked state, no longer a soluble product.

The final product after the coagulation of protein strands is the perfectly poached egg, with the yolk still in a liquid state, but the whites firmed nicely.

The use of egg yolk only in the making of the hollandaise – butter emulsified into egg yolks (Ruhlman 2009) – will provides another example of the versatility of the egg. We again use the application of heat to physically transform from its native state to the desired taste, texture and consistency, but in a very different method. Further explanation and of the emulsification process is explained later, during the egg yolk stage of the sauce we gently apply indirect heat through the use of a double boiler method (simply a bowl over a pot of simmering water, but never touching the water). The heat thickens the yolk, vinegar and pepper mixture, creating a creamy texture which can be ‘ribboned’ when the whisk in pulled through it. Overheating at this stage will cause cause the eggs to coagulate, or what we know as ‘curdle’, the separation of solids and liquids (see image below as the first attempt of the sauce and the resulting curdle), this is the sauce breaking and often this is the point of no return. As Mirsky and Pauling stated, once denatured the product cannot be returned to it native state, so time to start again!

 

Flour Power.

Carbohydrates are oft seen as bad for the human body and health, however they play an essential role in providing energy for the body and breaking down of proteins. In the realm of food science carbohydrates can perform a multitude of functionalities including thickening, emulsification, suspension stabilisation, mouth feel and crispiness (Embuscado 2014, p2). Sourdough has its traditions dating back to Ancient Egypt in 1500 BC (kitchenproject.com, n.d), a society which was keen on fermentation with the production of basic beer like beverages also. In the process of making sourdough we utilise flour in two different ways.

Fermentation, the start of something great.

“Fermentation is a process in which microorganisms, in the absences of oxygen, generate energy by oxidising carbohydrates and related compounds” (Josephsen & Jespersen p27)

This was the most arduous part of creating this dish. It takes time, patience and undying attention. The starter is to be fed on a similar scale as a family house pet, and kept at the right temperature (somewhat difficult to do during a Queensland summer) in order to develop the right flavours and developed a natural yeast. There was a failed first attempt at the instant mashed potato method of creating a starter, just resulting a in wet mash, with no signs of any yeast development. Disposing of the potato flake method and reverting to the classic flour, water and (rice)malt extract successfully created a sourdough starter. The method used took about a week to fully develop, but the distinct yeast scent had started only a few days into the process, a good sign that fermentation was transpiring. Daily observation of the starter saw an obvious increase in activity from the forming of bubbles on the top (sugars converting to gas), indicating the culture was alive. With each feeding and refreshment of the starter the sour smell continued to strengthen, and the bubbles more resilient.

The stages of the making the sourdough starter.

Making the Sourdough Loaf.

The second use of flour is the making of the bread dough. This process utilises flour as the stabiliser and providing texture, flavour and crust. The physical process of coalescing occurs during this process, or what we know as kneading of the dough. We are bringing together the flour and starter culture to form our dough. By this stage the starter culture has developed a wild yeast, so the need for commercial dry yeast is not required. Bread is one of the most basic staple foods in the world, and after attempting this sourdough recipe one can appreciate the hard work involved in producing such high quality loaves consistently. The mixing and kneading process is an essential step in making bread. If the dough is not kneaded enough, the gluten in the flour is not activated, leaving the bread dense with a tight crumb.

Below we have a clip of the kneading process of the dough with two different recipes, the first is using the failed attempt at the potato starter, the second with the successful traditional flour based starter. The first dough failed in spectacular fashion with no rise when proved, or dextrinisation – due to starch modification (Tomasik 2003, p123) – occurring during baking time. The second attempt which used the suitably fermented starter resulted in a stunning crisp, brown, crust and the what seemed like the makings of a proper sourdough crumb inside the loaf (maybe a tad under kneaded). There was not quite enough rise, so the crumb was still slightly dense but well and truly on its way to a real sourdough loaf, with flavour and crust a familiar taste. There are certainly more elements involved in making sourdough from the start than anticipated and getting them close to right was certainly a learning curve in the kitchen!

Proving

Successful Crust

Dextrinisation

Sourdough Success

Sourdough fresh from the oven

Butter Makes it all Better.

Gurr, Harwood and Frayne (2008, p1) define lipids as “a chemically heterogeneous group of substances having in common the property of insolubility in water, but solubility in non-aqueous solvents such as chloroform, hydrocarbons or alcohols”, or more commonly known as fat. During this process we liberally used butter. The first step was to make the butter itself, using two ingredients cream and salt. As a first time butter maker, the process of beater butter is quick and effective. Here we have a clip of the process (which in real time took approximately 10 minutes). We can see the point at which the physical separation of the fat occurs into butter and buttermilk, due to aggressive agitation.

The butter created is used in the final stage of completing our eggs benedict, completing the hollandaise sauce. At this stage we are looking at the emulsification process between our thickened eggs yolk and vinegar mixture and our melted (handmade) butter. In keeping with tradition of the rest of the cookery, it two attempts to make the sauce. The first attempt saw the splitting and curdling of liquids from solids when the butter was added to the eggs, resulting in vigorous whisking in attempt to coalesce, this was to no avail. The second attempt was much more successful, resulting in the perfect emulsification of eggs and melted butter to a thick and creamy sauce. The process of emulsification of lipids is a common cookery technique, not limited to the making hollandaise, think along the lines of mayonnaise with the use of oil.

Failed attempt, sauce split

Successful Hollandaise

The End Result.

Over four weeks of kitchen preparation time went into this attempt to make the classic eggs benedict. The end result was a preservative free, homemade delicious meal. The perfect execution of a denatured, coagulated egg combined with timely fermentation and dextrinisation of the sourdough all topped with a delightful emulsification of egg yolk, acid and lipids. The physical changes that occur from these kitchen basics is one of the most favoured brunch (or anytime) dishes due to the overall mouth feel (creaminess and umami from the hollandaise), flavour developed from the sourdough starts and crispiness of the dextrinisation of the crust and the perfectly soft cooked egg whites with the velvety, shiny yellowy yolk inside the poached egg.

Food for thought, food for the future

Over the past decades the human population has experienced unprecedented growth and as a result society has made advances in political, environmental, economic, social and technological realms. The importance of the role food plays in the sustainability of the world’s population is universally acknowledged and accepted as fact. Without food the human population will fade and eventually cease to exist. The issue falls within food production. How do we manage population growth at the same time as preserving limited farming land, finite resources and traditional methods?

The level of food security around the globe varies, but there is a general consensus that if population growth continues on its projected path we will exhaust our supply. There is now the need to secure food sources for future generations. A proposed solution to this is the increased production and consumption of genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This essay will aim to identify the current global and national context of GMOs in food production and the impact on contemporary society and future generations.

Food is essential for all life on the planet, be it a fish in the ocean, a tree in the Amazon or a human living in a developed urban centre. The increase in population, personal wealth and consumerism has lead to a threefold issue within the global context. Godfray, Beddington et al (2010, p. 812) have identified the challenges of “matching the rapidly changing demand for food from a larger and more affluent population to its supply; do so in ways that are environmentally and socially sustainable; and ensure that the world’s poorest people are no longer hungry” as the key areas of stress in food production and development for the future.

Maslow’s hierarchy of needs places biological and physiological as the most essential basic needs humans require. Within this category is breathing, water and food. Within the current global context 12.7% of the population live on or below the poverty line, just $1.90 per day (Worldbank 2012). As a society we fail to provide the most basic needs of Maslow’s hierarchy for everyone. There is now pressure from society to rectify these issues and provide food for the neediest around the world, whilst at the same time maintaining sustainable farming and production practices and safeguarding the future of food production on a global scale.

There are two sides to the argument. Firstly, GMOs are the way of the future; they will ensure food is adequately provided for the increasing global population. Secondly; traditional farming and production methods should be maintained for the health and longevity of society and the farming industry around the world.

 

Food Security

Food security affects each and every person on the planet. The importance to secure food production and stocks for future generations is at the forefront of much international and Australian policy debate and attention. The definition provided by the Food and Agriculture Organisation (1996) states;

“Food security is achieved when all people at all times have physical and economic access to sufficient, safe and nutritious food to meet dietary needs and food preferences for an active and healthy life.”

This is currently not being achieved on a global or national scale, and this is a major issue facing the international community. The lack of sufficient food has a direct impact on the health, well being and livelihoods of all people around the world (McDonald 2010, p2).

With a population edging towards 24 million (Australian Bureau of Statistics, 2015) and a stable political environment, places Australia within the top ten of the global food security index (2015). Australia produces enough food to feed 60 million people each day, but we still face issues of poor nutrition in low socio-economic regions. The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council (2010) has identified Australia key strengths relevant to building food security:

• Strong, successful agricultural lineage in harsh farming conditions, currently one of the top producers in extremely dry conditions, variable climate and poor quality soil
• Ability to deliver on technological advancements
• Agricultural, human health and nutrition research and development ranks amongst the highest in the world
• Climate change conscious and active in the international cause

The building pressure of food security globally and nationally will pose new challenges to the international community. The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council 2010) identify the following areas as the most prominent increase in demand:

• Supply Chain improvements and resilience; efficiency in food production, processing and distribution and responsibility in purchasing and consumption to reduce wastage and minimise costs.
• Advancements in food production developments; Research and the delivery of innovations to underpin productivity growth in the food sector, to meet human health needs and bring improvements in food processing.
• Flexibility and responsiveness in regulation to ensure rapid delivery of innovations to the food value chain.

The Food Supply Chain

Food security is inherently linked to the food supply chain. Without the production, processing, transportation and distribution of foods, the global situation may become much worse than it currently is. Wells and Edwards (2004; p17) identify the food supply chain as;

“A spectrum of activities from agricultural production of bulk food commodities and ingredients through fresh produce to manufacturing, distribution, sales and consumption. It includes fresh and processed food products, ingredients and beverages”.

 

The Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry (2012) conducted a study into the resilience and effectiveness of the existing food supply chain. This study, conducted by Sapere Research Group, determined the existing food chain has a high degree of resilience on a national, regional and local level but that supply and demand of the future will decrease this.

The question has been posed over recent years as the sustainability and reliability of the global food chain, with unprecedented levels of food contamination and food shortages impacting the market. As the population grows and food production doubles to cope with demand, will the supply chain remain stable? There is a concern amongst the international community that, the only solution to meet the increasing demand for food is to produce more of it in shorter time frames. This could be solved through the introduction of more genetically modified foods.

 

Genetically Modified Foods

At its most basic definition genetic modification is isolating a gene from one plant source and pasting into another source. The World Health Organisation (2015) defines genetically modified foods (GMFs) as;

“Foods derived from organisms whose genetic material (DNA) has been modified in a way that does not occur naturally, e.g. through the introduction of a gene from a different organism”.

The increased use of genetically modified foods in the future is a certainty. Currently there is only the use of plant based modification, the World Health Organisation has indicated that genetically modified animals are likely. Most genetically modified crops have been developed with the purpose of increasing resilience to disease, tolerance of herbicides and to increase yield. To achieve food security for the growing population genetically modified foods is the most likely solution. This is certainly a feasible option if conducted in a way that is safe for the consumer and fair for farmers.

Although food biotechnology has been present within cultures for many years (fermentation being one of the oldest processes in making bread, beer and soy sauce) the first introduction of genetically modified foods to the global market was in 1983. The result was a tobacco plant resistant to antibiotics (Monsanto 2014) and later the Flavr Savr tomato, which essentially did not rot.

Genetically modified foods are produced to meet a number of key challenges facing international and domestic communities. The underpinning reasons for scientific advancements in food biotechnology and genetics is to (The Prime Minister’s Science, Engineering and Innovation Council 2010);

• Improve water use and management in agriculture.
• Tackle the problem of soil nutrition and reduce the reliance on high energy requirements for fertiliser production.
• To ensure sustainable management of the natural resource base.
• To accelerate advances through new plant, livestock and breeding strategies.

All of these points underline the main objective which is to provide enough food for the growing human populations. Parehk (2004) suggests that the rapid urbanisation and industrialisation, impact of climate change on water and air quality and increasing computer technology leading to a simplified supply chain are core contributors. Therefore, supporting the need to increase the rate at which genetically modified foods are produced and an increase in market presence. The pretence for developing genetically modified organisms is to take the best from one plant and enhance another, in order to create sustainable food supplies for future generations.

Genetically modified seeds have been proven to increase crop yields whilst reducing the use of limited natural resources. They are also a vessel in which additional nutrition can be injected into the food chain. The introduction of genetically modified foods such as soy, corn, cotton and wheat has strengthened the food supply chain and somewhat safeguarded food security for future generations.

 

Debate Surrounding Genetically Modified Foods

The role of genetically modified foods on the global food industry is polarising. As a cohesive society we are facing climate change, slowing growth of primary industries, degradation of land and soil quality and a growing population. Traditional farming and production methods will simply not meet the needs of the future (Parehk 2004).

Although the increased production of food may seem like the most obvious answer, there is a strong cohort against the use of genetically modified food within the supply chain. The key areas of concern raised in the genetically modified food debate are in relation to treatment of farmers by transnational biotechnology corporations such as Monsanto, the side effects on the human body, impacts on the natural environment, safety of the products and of course the ethics of the entire process.

Agricultural & farm management practices

Monsanto has been accused in the past of mistreatment, intimidation and threats against farmers who have the authority to use their patented genetically modified seeds and some who have indirectly used seeds without permission from the company (otherwise known as cross pollination). Traditional farming methods have seen the planting, harvest and cleaning of seeds for centuries. The introduction of Monsanto patented seeds has seen a stop to this time-old method, with farmers who purchase genetically modified seeds required to purchase new from Monsanto each year. This has impacted on the bottom line for both farmers and Monsanto, with the latter faring better than the former.

Monsanto states that only nine cases have been to trial in the past 18 years, all of which resulted in their favour. The main issue being farmers not paying for new seeds in the new season. Monsanto has indicated that “Through our own actions or through third-parties” they find farmers who are not sticking to their purchase agreements. This statement alone infers some type of power and intimidation over the farmers who purchase the seeds.

Monsanto is a business that should be paid for goods and services provided, they do invest large quantities of money into research of agriculture and ways to create a more sustainable food supply chain for the future. The issues raised have always been in relation to the way in which they treat their farmers and the management of farms which use their products.

Effects on human health

One of the common issues raised in the genetically modified debate is the risk these products pose to human health. Monsanto has been at the forefront to advise that there is no negative impact from consuming genetically modified foods, however the rapid rate of advancement makes it difficult to be so certain, and without human testing there is no real certainty. Many claim that genetically modified foods cause the body to be more susceptible to allergies and may create new ones. Greenpeace (2011) provides the example of genetically modified peas produced in Australia, which caused an allergic reaction in mice, and found the mice to be more sensitive to other food allergies. The effects of herbicides on health has also been at the forefront of the genetically modified discussion due to concerns it can impact on hormones and how they behave in the body.

 Impact on ecosystems

Ecosystems are complex (Parehk 2004) and concerns have been raised about the possible effect on introducing new plants. This is not limited to impacts on other plants. Since the introduction of Monsanto genetically modified seeds, there has been a decline in both monarch butterflies and honey bees (Monsanto 2014), both crucial to the natural reproduction of plants and crops in traditional farming practices. Monsanto has implemented programs to counteract the impact their products have had on the feeding and breeding environments of both species.

Genetically modified seeds developed by Monsanto have been successful in reducing water consumption on farms (ideal for farming regions in Australia, the driest continent). Certainly a positive step in the right direction for sustainable farming domestically.

Food Safety

There is little evidence of harm caused by eating genetically modified foods in saying this there has been limited information made available to the public about the actual products generated by Monsanto. Food Standards Australia New Zealand (2013) state that genetically modified foods must undergo a safety assessment and pass approval before sale. It is also compulsory to identify genetically modified foods on all food labelling, this is not a consistent practice on a global scale. Safety is hotly debated with many anti-genetically modified campaigners, such as March Against Monsanto, producing very consistent arguments against the products and the damage they do to general health, farmers and the environment.

Ethical practices

The ethical practices of Monsanto are at the forefront of anti campaigners. Some aspects of the organisation lack transparency and accountability for actions. Another ethical dilemma with the increase of genetically modified foods is the ‘ownership’ of plants. Tietel and Wilson (2010, p3) state “a handful of giant corporations have placed patents on food plants giving the exclusive control over that food”. Monsanto have effectively created a monopoly on food and own anywhere between 80% to 95% of genetically modified crops. This has lead to essentially the entire globe relying on one corporation for future food security, not an ideal situation to be in for such an important issue.

International and Domestic Regulatory Bodies and Policy

Although Monsanto has the monopoly on the production, it still must follow protocols set to international and domestic standards. The Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nation (FAO), the Intergovernmental Task Force on Foods Derived from Biotechnology and the World Health Organisation are instrumental in implementing and monitoring protocols for producers of genetically modified foods. The task force has enforced some codes of conduct for genetically modified producers, it is mandatory for all foods to be tested for allergic properties, all safety assessments are case-by-case and post market reviews are to be further researched. Unfortunately, this task force has been dissolved, leaving a critical role in the hands of various departments.

On a national level, Australia implements its own protocols and standards via Food Standards Australia New Zealand. This organisation is responsible for the approval of all genetically modified foods in Australia and New Zealand, prior to them being available in the market. The concepts and protocols have been derived from the aforementioned task force risk analysis principles. The primary purpose of the FSANZ (2013) being:

• Identification of new hazards as a result of modification
• Assess potential risk with products in the context of their intended use
• Determine any new conditions are needed for safe use

FSANZ regulates all food labelling. It is mandatory to label all genetically modified foods and products in Australia and New Zealand. There are some exceptions to this however. Restaurants are exempt from identifying the use of genetically modified foods, along with some products containing very minimal traces. To date, there has been no knock backs on any application of genetically modified foods by FSANZ.

 

Corporate Social Responsibility, Economic & Environmental Implications

Monsanto’s approach to corporate social responsibility is very prevalent. Throughout the vast majority of marketing and corporate documents, they identify the ways in which they are actively enhancing food security, increasing effective water usage and developing new sustainable practices. Monsanto positions themselves in a very positive light and is very effective at setting a tone, if we didn’t have Monsanto we would not be able to feed the world. This monopoly attitude is a dangerous attribute of the corporation, and fear mongering to a certain degree. Genetically modified foods are important for future food security, but awarding all of the power to one corporation is not the way to move forward in a sustainable manner.

Meeting food security is one of the costliest endeavours in contemporary society. The estimated cost of feeding the worlds neediest is approximately $30 billion per year (New York Times 2008) and this funding needs to be sourced from somewhere, the lack of which is impacting the ability to effectively feed the current population and will continue to be struggle as growth continues. Using a sole provider to secure food for the future will greatly impact on the bottom line of Monsanto, as a business they are more concerned with profits than making a difference for free.

The main issue that would arise from this food production model is a monopoly. This economic structure does not work, competition is required. Putting all trust in one corporation is not the way to secure sustainable food sources for the future. There is the potential to develop such unattainable farming practices that traditional methods will have no chance at competing. Although genetically modified foods have a place in food security they are not the absolute solution.

The reliance solely genetically modified food is a potential issue we face as a society. If we can produce more food using less finite resources, this could only be seen as a way to ensure food security. However, we must also take into account the farming and agricultural history that is embedded in so many global and domestic communities. For all farmers to purchase Monsanto brand seeds would create monotone farming across the globe, certainly impacting the food supply chain.

In the ecological sense we also run the risk of removing all natural development with food. Organisms have, since the start of time, been developing and advancing in their own ways. There is a point when we may take modifications too far to integrate into the natural environment without negative affects. Taking the destruction of the monarch butterflies habitat as an example, measures need to be implemented to ensure this does not happen again in the future.

Although in an ideal world everyone would have their own piece of land to farm their own organic produce and rear animals, this is never going to be the case. In order to achieve food security for future generations there is the need to adopt food modification and new production techniques for farming and food production. This however cannot be effectively achieved through the monopolisation of the industry by corporations such as Monsanto, they must simply be one part of the food supply chain, not in control of the entire system.

No Reservations needed at Paladar Los Amigos

No Reservations is a food series produced by The Travel Channel, it is written and hosted by American celebrity chef and author Anthony Bourdain. The focus of this piece will be on the episode ‘Cuba’, a part of the culinary world infrequently documented but extremely fascinating. No Reservations could be placed into the “tour-educative” category of cooking program as identified by Strange, with the focus on how food is symbolic within the Cuban culture rather than the act of preparing recipes for the camera. Throughout the episode Bourdain uses a variety of dishes to symbolise the societal classes and interesting history and people of the nation.

The often brazen host takes to the streets of Havana, giving the audience an insight into the foodways of the modern-day Communist capital city. The rapport Bourdain builds with his audience is a complex and not always favourable one, the reaction to the filming of this episode in Cuba brought along its controversies, but its the approach of the host that makes the episode so enthralling to watch and effective at displaying food as a symbol of Cuban culture. Embargoes on fresh produce have meant a lack of gastronomic development as opposed to the other islands in Caribbean. The food displayed in the episode could have been explained at the denotative level of sustenance, for example the dish of chicken, rice and beans may be seen by an outsider of the culture as basic sustenance or just a plate of food with no importance, however Bourdain’s presentation and attitude towards the simple staple meal is taken much further to a level of significance within the Cuban culture. His choice of dining companion, Fidel Castro photographer Roberto Salas, suggests “its the best”, putting a humane element to the meal thus creating authenticity for the viewing audience and devoting the myth that Cuban food is nothing extraordinary.

What this episode does well is two main things, it identifies the reasons for the lack of awareness of Cuban cuisine within western cultures and it promotes food in a new light, creating a new symbolic meaning for the viewers. Due to the political history of Cuba over the past 60 years, very little has been documented in film to show the real side of the nation other than tourist resorts. Bourdain achieves through dining in state-run restaurants and paladars, restaurants operated out of private homes by self-employed. The comparison between the two dining styles allows the viewer to become empathetic with the current gastronomic situation in the community and understand the value and meaning of food in the culture. The visual representation of the food and atmosphere within the paladar is certainly in a more positive light that the state-run restaurants, although the host assures the audience at the beginning of the episode that it has nothing to do with Communism. The imagery is very effective at creating meaning behind the food served throughout the episode. We are taken on the journey from the market to the kitchen of Elizabeth owner of Paladar Los Amigos, visually providing a journey with the food, the way the local food community has managed to work around the regiment society which the live as opposed to just plate of grilled pork put together by a chef in a studio.

One aspect of the show that may turn away some viewers is the opinions of the host, which at times can be harsh. Such as the experience of being at a baseball game, a major pastime of Cubans. Bourdain can be quick to pass judgement in things that may not be up to his standard, such as lack of beer at a baseball game, which in turn is a positive for most of the local community rather than a negative.

Cuba is not known as a food destination, the food consumed by the locals is to be considered basic at best with rationing still enforced by the government. What this show does is create a sense of warmth and value to the simple meal of roast chicken, rice and beans (so good Bourdain goes back for more). The visual imagery used throughout the episode highlights the simplicity of the food but emphasises the quality experience associated with it, the sounds, the packed paladars, the colours, the haze of cigar smoke just above head height. Although the show does not contain any actual cooking by the host, the food has the ability to make you want to board the next flight to Havana and dive into a chipped bowl of pork and rice from Elizabeth down at Paladar Los Amigos.

Periwinkles by the Lake

The salty waves are gently lapping up against the smooth slate of Flat Rock, drowned out by the singing of the bellbirds, bowers and footsteps of other critters scurrying along the floor of the ragged bush land. The fire smouldering, making the surrounding stone too hot to walk on, we pretend we are atop of Gulaga back in the Dreamtime brimming with lava, steam and ash daring one another to get closer to flame with each lap around the pit pushing ourselves towards the edge of danger each time, letting our imaginations run wild after too much time in the sun. Dad and uncles are wading in the water about ankle-deep, we know that when we come to Flat Rock we are in for a treat, a secret treat just for the boys.

“Come here boys, come down see what we got!” The booming voice of our elder rang through the trees, scaring birds off into the distance, but to us could only mean one thing the ultimate treat was in his possession. “Periwinkles!” we all rejoiced in unison. The mound of tiny shells adorning the lakeside rocks like a pile of diamonds glistening in the late afternoon sun. The candy of the southern saltwater lakes, a special treat for us when we have been behaving ourselves, oysters and mussels for everyday dinner, periwinkles for the special occasions only.

“Put them in the tin uncle”, “How many did you get uncle”, “Did anyone bring any pins along? How do we eat them?”  like a chorus of young boys singing in rounds we fire off the questions eager to be the first one to taste the sweet flesh of the treat about to be offered to us. There is no time to waste, the sooner they are boiled and devoured the better. We are offered some oysters to keep us quiet while our little friends are bubbling away on the fire, uncle removing them gently from the rocks and leveraging open their protective casing fresh saltwater running down his arm. No one has found a pearl yet but the anticipation is there each time waiting for that moment of glory but for now just the sweet taste of the gooey flesh will suffice I like it to slide straight down into my belly, the salty lake water making it like a water slide down my throat. It wets my appetite, the sound of the water boiling and the periwinkles hitting the sides of the used can on the fire like a little drum making its own beat, my taste buds dancing along. Not long until popcorn of the lake enters my mouth, taking a safe refuge from the ferocity of the boiling water.

“Hands out boys be careful they are hot” uncle stresses as he drains the winkles onto the hot stone around the fire, the steam drifts away like spirit dreams disappearing into the blood-red afternoon sky.  I pick it up tenderly as to not burn my hands or even worse drop my little treasure and waste what we have been waiting all day for. This is the first time I have the get my own meat from the tiny intricate shell, I have seen elders do it with ease how hard could it be really? Just put the pin in and twist and pull, just put the pin in and twist and pull… I can get the pin in but my little friend doesn’t want to come out of his home, all the big cousins have already had three or four each and I haven’t even had one, just twist and pull. Success! My little grey worm is dangling precariously on the edge of my miniature dagger, this is it my big moment to join the men. Finally the salty and slightly slimy winkle hits my tongue, the meat event sweeter than ever before, I can feel the grittiness between my teeth with each bite, a testament to the hard work I have put in to be worthy of this reward saved for the men of the family, finally setting me as their equal.

Cooking Cambodia Part One

 After the long traverse from Bangkok we arrived in the unique, vibrant town of Siem Reap. The brief time I spent in Cambodia has been one of the highlights of all my travel experiences. It encompasses everything I love to experience in life, good food, drinks and people. The town of Siem Reap has lot going for it, after a party, it has Pub Street, after history, it has Angkor Wat, after a real local food experience, it has the Old Market (sun-dried snake meat included) The town is vibrant with people, colour and sounds at all times of the day.

It seemed the perfect destination to give the local Khmer cuisine a spin. Khmer is a fascinating culture that has been subject to much turmoil over the years, facing coups, genocide and corruption. The history is obvious within modern Cambodian society, its effects lasting years. The poverty is obvious and it is important as a visitor to this beautiful country to respect what has happened and help where we can and avoiding participating in activities that negatively impact on its citizens. In order to do this, I went to a cooking class on the infamous Pub Street located in the heart of Siem Reap. Full of bars, restaurants and general tourist traps, there is always something going on and you can get an Angkor Draught for a mere 35 cents, it a place to have lots of fun with travellers and locals alike.

We selected Temple as the location for our class, setting us back a hefty  $10 for three courses and one on one tutors. We were paired with a lovely young teacher called Nob who had moved to Siem Reap to study business and earn a wage to support her family who still lived in a rural area. Hearing her story and dreams for the future made the connection even stronger, taking the step out of the family region to make a better life for oneself is something I have faced in my own life. The conversation flowed easily and well beyond the hour lesson and what was required of our kind-hearted host. In the midst of the conversing we actually did some cooking, making three traditional Khmer dishes. Chicken salad in banana flower, Khmer curry and a glutinous pudding (think sago like). All delicious, flavoursome and easy to prepare, the main thing I walked away with is cook curries on water and add a ladle of fresh milk at the end for creaminess, revelation! But I guess when adding copious amounts of coconut milk, stock and cream to dish isn’t viable you learn to adapt, which is something the Cambodians know inside out.

The dishes were fresh and lively, with all produce collected from the Old Market, the heart of culinary tourism in Siem Reap. The flavours of turmeric, ginger and coconut prevalent throughout, but this intensity of flavour only matched by the smells wafting in from the street. The sound of the traditional Khmer music tinkling so softly in the back ground completes the scene creating the authentic experience, something that can oft be lost in the haze of mass tourism.

Fried Fish Saloon

Oh My Cod! The Codfather, A Salt n Battered, I Believe I can Fry. What other restaurant could get away with such humorous pun names that never tire, the local chippie of course. The familiar smells of the fat fryer, salt and vinegar are paired only with the sounds of seagulls begging for a stray chip outside and the sizzle as fresh cod, ling and flathead are lowered into the fryers. Vinegar or tomato sauce, with mushy peas, made into a chip butty, soggy or crispy, battered grilled or crumbed. As with the meat pie and pavlova, there is the debate amongst countries within the Commonwealth as to who can take credit for the invention of the dish? This will be a journey through the development of ‘fish and chips’ within contemporary cuisine, along with the changes, influencing factors for these changes and how the dish contributes to society today.

Having been raised in a small fishing village meant fish and seafood was a staple part of the family diet. Freshly caught from beaches, lakes and the ocean we were never short of our own supply or neighbours and friends dropping by with that nights dinner, always in trade for some vegetables or firewood. An experience I unfortunately no longer part take in living in metropolitan city one hour away from the closest natural water source which is healthy enough to produce fish safe for human consumption. The role the humble meal of fish and chips has played in my life has been more significant than I had realised, from infancy to present day it has been involved in my gastronomic world, wherever I have been around the globe.

Reflection is great thing and upon looking back through the past ten years of travel journal notes and photos, I am mostly engaged with food on various levels whether eating or cooking. In nearly all trips, I have engaged in the consumption of fish and chips to some degree experiencing many local variations of the simple fish and potato dish. Be it in New Zealand whilst working in a gastropub up selling as the dish as uniquely Kiwi (featuring the freshest Akaroa Salmon and Kumara chips with aioli) to unsuspecting American tourists. Cambodia in which we received a small langoustine type creature dowsed in Khmer pepper (which has a stunning natural citrus flavour akin to sumac) with pack of potato chips on the side, served fresh while sitting on the remote Otres Beach. Or the Jamaican version with plantain chips and fresh fish barbecued in jerk spices right on the azure waters of the iconic Floyd’s Pelican Bar. The combination of fish and potato is a classic and is accessible to all, made with basic ingredients and undoubtably delicious, no matter where in the world it is consumed.

Having a British family heritage I have had exposure to both the British and Australian ways of preparing, cooking and consuming what could be seen as traditional fish and chips. When visiting the grandparents, vinegar and salt was compulsory (to the point in which my Nan had a spray bottle of white vinegar in her pantry in order to achieve an even coating and prevent sogginess) tomato sauce was banned. At home my two brothers and I always snuck a raw piece of potato whilst the chips were being cut, with the threat of receiving one less for dinner as punishment, yet Mum always had less on her plate than we did. The beer batter crucial, only coldest Victoria Bitter could get the correct aeration. Crispy on the outside soft on the inside, my only rule for both fish and chips. The resulting meal served with fresh lemon and salt. Nowadays we are faced with so many options of sauce and condiment sides, pickled treats and every batter, crumb and cookery style under the sun. On the occasions I get to make the trip back to my home we get to enjoy preparing the meal in the same way, reminiscing about our silly behaviour as children and being allowed to drink the beer the batter is made with. The nostalgia of the dish is something that connects my family across three generations, and hopefully many more to come.

For the purpose of this memoir we will use the classic Bermagui way of preparing fish and chips.This is the recipe closest to my heart and also the only was I really know how to get a nice crisp batter and flaky white fillets. Two of key factors in creating the perfect fish and chips is the choice of fish and the choice of potato. The traditional British dishes use cod, pollock or haddock as the main fish sources. When choosing a fish, like any fresh produce, it is best to buy local where possible and also from sustainable sources. A fish close to my heart is the Dusky Flathead, the first fish I ever caught (even though it was undersize and was thrown back) and in abundance in the South Coast region, it also happens to be one of the most delicious fish the batter and fry up.

Beer Battered Fish and Chips

4 fresh Flathead tails, skinned and boned (if you can catch yourself even better)

1 cup plain flour, plus a little bit more for dusting

1 1/2  cup beer (Victoria Bitter), chilled

2 teaspoons baking powder

Salt & Pepper to taste

4 large potatoes, peeled and cut into thick chips, placed on paper towel to remove excess moisture before frying

Lots of vegetable oil, or beef dripping for the real British experience

Condiments

Salt

Lemon

White Vinegar

Combine beer, flour, baking powder & season, it should form a thick batter that is runny but coats the spoons nicely.

Heat oil to 180 degrees Celsius, enough so all fish is submerged or deep fryer if you have one

Dust flathead fillets in flour and dip in batter until evenly coated, place straight into hot oil to get a good crust to form immediately

Once golden brown, drain on paper towel and salt

For the chips, we could go down the three times cooked way made famous by Heston Blumenthal, but for tasty homemade chips, simply put the cut potatoes in the oil and fry until golden brown and crisp, drain and salt. Dowse in lemon and eat enjoy nice and hot, preferably sitting in the sun.

Other condiments that may adore such a delightful meal include pickles, tartare sauce, tomato sauce, aioli, Marie Rose sauce and mushy peas, all variations depending heavily on geographical location. Reinventions of the dish are only limited to the imagination of those who create it, but there is always a reason recipes that stay true to traditional remain prominent within society through all is changes, sometimes the classic is the best.

“No cookery belongs exclusively to its one country or region. What each individual country does do is to give all the elements, borrowed or otherwise, something of a national character. The history of cooking is in some ways like the history of language” Jane Grigson

To arrive at the dish we know and love as fish and chips today we must first begin our journey in different centuries and geographical locations. Many dishes in contemporary society have been born from the migratory patterns of humans and resulted from the merge of local produce and new cookery styles. Mintz and Du Bois (2002 p105) identify that anthropologists commonly recognise peoples on the move – migrants,refugees,and colonisers as agents of dietary change. Not only do peoples move across the globe, so also do foods. The transition of cooking fish in oil as opposed to over a flame or boiling has made the journey around the globe. As a somewhat experienced traveller I can relate to the migration of cuisine from one part of the world to the other. I now have changed my own eating habits of fish and chips to include a fiery Jamaican jerk spice blend into the traditional batter. This has created an even deeper connection with the dish as key part of my gastronomic experiences.

Firstly the fish, sources (National Federation of Fish Friers n.d) indicate that the origins of fried fish comes from both Jewish and Spanish lineage, as far back as the 17th century and being brought into London by migrants. Whereas with traditional British cookery methods were based around the preserving, pickling, boiling and roasting methods (Hawkins 2012 p6 ). The introduction of the deep fry technique would start to carve a new path in the gastronomic history of Britain’s cultural identity, resulting in the evolution of the dish across the globe.

Mason (2004, p88) has suggested that potatoes are the most important vegetable in the British diet. The potato is prominent in many European cuisines, and the invention of the humble chip or pommes frites is claimed by both France and Belgium (Crofton 2013) and was swiftly adopted by the British, eventually making its way to distant family in Australia and other around the globe. The method of deep fry was originally one reserved only for the upper classes of society (Crofton 2013) due to the quantity of oil required and associated costs, it is fascinating to see how the dish evolved into a symbol of the working class culture across the world.

The first chippie establishment in Britain is a debated topic still to this day. The National Federation of Fish Friers (NFFF, n.d.) suggest that the first was created around 1860, the first time the two humble ingredients were served as complete meal together. It has been identified that at the peak of popularity there were 35,000 fish and chip shops in the UK (NFFF n.d). It was at this point the dish started to evolve into a cultural icon of British cuisine around the globe. In modern society the affordability of global travel, access to social media and our exploratory behaviour have meant the increased migration of international dishes and cuisines to farther parts of the world. This has contributed to the evolution of dishes, such as fish and chips from the traditional to interesting, unique variations we now see within the food community. Within my life I have seen the evolution of the commercial farming, fishery and food industry from the backend. The changes within the dish have been minimal over the years, with the main alternations occurring being to move away from beef dripping as the frying medium to healthier oils and the use of different fish species. The concept of the dish has remained well and truly intact.

As with all food production there is the need for sustainable practices. Within Australia we have fisheries management is place to ensure the sustainability of fish stocks for future generations. Having grown up in a village based around the fishery industry I have had great exposure to both positive and negative industry practices, we have always been encouraged to fish responsibility and only catch what we need. Unfortunately due to prices of fresh produce in Australia and overfishing we are seeing and increase in farmed fish from South East Asia, with Thailand contributing to nearly a third of all Australian seafood in 2014 (FRDC 2015). The Australian Seafood Sustainability Guide (2014) states the current stocks of flathead are in moderately good shape, with no signs of running out, a step in the right direction for the security of fish and chips as a sustainable meal option. Sustainability has created issues fish and chips in Britain, with shortages leading to a frequently changing species of fish used and also the use of fish from non sustainable sources. This in turn has resulted in the evolution of the dish even further, with new species such as salmon, skate even rays being used in place of white flesh fish. But does the use of different texture, colours and flavours of fish identify with the traditional fish and chips we all love? If I was to receive a piece of ray fin that had been hidden within the confines of a crisp golden batter I would feel let down. The dish is popular for a reason, the soft flaky white flesh that has been protected in its golden armour. To let such a delicious and iconic dish go to pasture due to overfishing would be devastating for all of the fish and chip lovers around the world.

The sustainability of ingredients essential for preserving the life of our gastronomic history. It would disastrous to see the extinction of a dish due to mankind’s inability to manage its own consumption levels, by loosing the humble fish and chip dinner we would be loosing part of our culture.

With new advances in technology daily, food production in the sights of all developing nations as a high priority, how can we get the most out of production. The development of fish farms around the globe has resulted in the creation of sustainable fish sources, so should be plenty of little cod (or flathead) to keep us enjoying our beloved fish and chips for many years to come. As food continues to globalise, the import and export of products becomes easier and cheaper for food producers gaining access to new markets. Whilst camping in the Australian outback several years ago, we made a pit stop at Voyages Resort near Uluru. We selected to dine in one of the resort restaurants for dinner, a change from the stale meats we had been cooking over the barbecue for past few weeks. My jaw hit the floor when I read the menu was offering not only fish and chips, but fresh fish and chips. We were currently located in one of the most remote places I have ever been but could still get some flathead battered and served with a side of chips. We have taken technological advances to develop supply chains so efficient we have our fresh fish wherever we like with out a second thought.

“I never order fish on Monday, unless I’m eating at a restaurant where I know they are buying their fish directly from the source”
Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential

Although technology and agricultural advances mean we have access to the foods we desire more easily, what is the detriment to the quality in flavour, texture and nutrition. Early recipes of the dish would utilise fresh caught fish and hand cut, raw fresh potato, nothing artificial or frozen. Growing up on only freshly caught seafood, I had never experienced any other way to prepare except caught that day and cleaned at home in the kitchen. To my surprise once moving out of home to further my studies and having to fend for myself, I soon realised that this is certainly not the case for most. And a growing number of people I engaged with all ‘hated fish’. Something I couldn’t quite understand, while consuming super fresh, mild flathead. It soon became apparent that not all of these fellow soon to be academics had ever tried fresh fish. It had all been frozen,imported, watery and flavourless. At what point was this fish killed and prepared? It could be days, weeks or months keep tin storage and finally making the journey to the Australian supermarket shelves. The compromise of products like this is the taste, flavour and nutrition have all deteriorated.

“Judging from the space given to it in the media, the great number of cookbooks and restaurant guides published annually,the conversations of friends-it is very nearly topic number one. Restaurants today are talked about with the kind of excitement that ten years ago was expended on movies”

Aristides

I recall watching an old episode of Heston Blumenthal (not quite sure which series it was from) and seeing his enthusiasm for making the best chips ever. Never has a celebrity chef exuded such excitement for the creation of something so unassuming as the chip. His passion for making the best chip ever made me want to try to replicate what food wizardry I had just witnessed, although after several attempts I have not successfully achieved the perfect thrice cooked chip. This is just one example of how easy it is to slightly alter the perception of a dish in society. No longer do we view it as the boring soggy chips we throw in the oven, but an experience of creatively preparing and experiencing the taste, texture, smells and umami associated with the perfect chip. The revolution that is the celebrity chef has played a major part in the recent development of gastronomy and the way people approach sustainable produce and the role food plays in cultural development of society.

Fish and chips is a Friday night favourite. What originally was served from chippies as a take away meal now is now commonly prepared in the home, thanks to the convenience of frozen fish fillets and chips that are oven ready, suiting the time poor families looking for a treat at the end of the week without the expense or fuss of preparing fresh fish and using copious amounts of oil. As eating habits change over time, fish and chips has seemed to remains a staple part of many western diets. The ease of access to ingredients to make the dish and to vendors selling it have kept it current within the gastronomic spectrum of society. The travel and exploration of the globe with always play an important role in the evolution of dishes. This is a dish born out of the introduction of cookery methods and ingredients from surrounding nations. The heavenly taste of freshly cooked fish and chips is a reason why the dish has remained current in contemporary society. The connection most others have with the dish is the nostalgia, memories of sitting seaside with your parents on the sunny Saturday afternoon listening to the waves and seagulls in the back ground. This connection between the dish and experience is passed on between generations, allowing it to transcend any major shifts is the gastronomic spectrum of which society expects.

Fish and chips has played a vital role in my appreciation, love and respect for food as a whole. This is a dish that has a special place int he heart of nation in Britain, something that is replicated here in Australia and across the globe. Be it in the traditional sense or a molecular reinvention, the meaning and value of the dish is transcendent across cuisines and generations.

Blues

Music is essential to life, well to my life. It is representative of so many things, culture, milestones and celebrations. For me a music library is never stagnant. I made the mistake of changing to a more mobile MacBook from my trusty Mac desktop, failing to account for the 20 000 plus songs in my iTunes account. With no home to go to my companions are taking refuge in the safe confines of portable hard drive. This is the most played song in my catalogue, The Black Keys in their early days when they were a bit more blues based covering a set of Junior Kimbrough songs, just a stunning song lyrically and both versions are perfect!

Like beef and red wine, there are some genres of music that just suit certain cooking styles better. For me it doesn’t get better than soulful, deep, old school blues and baking. Give me Stevie Ray Vaughn, Robert Johnson, Muddy Mississippi Waters, BB King, Arthur Big Boy Cruddup anyway of the week and the creative juices just flow. The lyrics about poverty, struggles with drugs and alcohol and of course love bring out a classic side of me, taking me back to the days where the women stayed home and provided for their families in the only way they knew how, by cooking. What was created was a unique relationship of food and music that still stands strong within the culture.

In todays music scene there seems to be lack of love for the blues, particularly in Australia. We don’t get to see new up and comers like the kings of blues, they are rather put into other genres meaning a lack of growth within the genre, which as a massive fan, makes me suffer some blues of my own. We no longer get to experience the display of talent shown in the clip below.

Muddy Waters

Blues and baking go hand in hand, particularly on an overcast Sunday afternoon. As one of my favourite genres of music, blues holds a special place in my heart, having the ability to take me back to the 1950s sitting around the kitchen table with Muddy Waters and one of his many lady friends as he woos them with promises of cruising around town in automobiles, to a simpler time when music was so powerfully emotive and seemingly literally from the soul of the artist.

Muddy Waters is a true hero of the blues (Delta Blues) and one of my favourite musicians ever, it is with great sorrow that he has passed before getting the opportunity to see him perform in person. The deep guitar offered by Muddy is truly unique along with stellar vocals make him someone very special to listen to.

This became inspiration for todays kitchen play around, Double Chocolate and Caramel tarts. But before that just one more to get into the mood, taking us back to the days in which a the women could stay at home and bake all day long, and just play around in the kitchen making food a major part of the family’s day.

So, back to the task at hand, making these delicious little treats, and I say little because this recipe makes 4 individual 8cm tarts, so perfect for those who live with just one other having a few over for a partay (and it will be a party with Muddy humming along in the background).

What you will need to get started
Oven preheated at 180 degrees
4 individual tart/flan tins
small saucepan
measures and weights
greaseproof paper
patience

Mix it all up in here…to make the chocolate shortcrust that is (we are making this with our hands, you could use a processor if you like, but we are going back to old days here)

1 heaped tablespoon cocoa powder
1 tablespoon icing sugar (powdered for those from the Northern Hemisphere)
100g plain flour
pinch of salt
75gm chilled unsalted butter (if you only have salted leave out the extra salt)
2 tablespoons of iced water

For the caramel filling
1 cup white sugar
6 tablespoons butter (salted is best)
1/2 cup cream
salt

For Chocolate ganache
100 gm Dark Chocolate
1/4 cup Cream

Place flour, cocoa, sugar and salt into your mixing bow, add the chopped butter and rub into flour mix until the consistency of rough breadcrumbs.

Add in the water 1 spoon at a time and using a palate know bring the mixture together gently, this will essentially clump, then using your hands bring the dough together into a ball.
Transfer dough onto a lightly floured bench and knead for a few minutes until the dough is smooth, form into a disc, wrap in plastic and put in the fridge for about 30 minutes to chill.

Here we have live footage of Muddy and another Blues legend BB King playing a 30 minute set together, better than any obnoxious timer buzzing right?

Take the dough from the fridge, unwrap and place on a floured bench, roll out to about 3-5mil thick, remember to roll from the centre outwards to keep it even and smooth, using your palate knife, cut dough into quarters, gently lifting the dough lay into each tin and gently press base and sides, remove overhang from around the top of the tin.

Please note, I am not a professional chef and I use and iPhone 6 for photos, so I cannot promise perfection, but at least it will be tasty and look “rustic”.

Line the tarts with baking paper and pop in some baking weights or if like me you don’t own these some rice to prevent the shortcrust from rising (this is blind baking)

Bake the shells for about 12 minutes covered and 6 minutes uncovered, the pastry will be crisp and come away from the sides of the tin.

Set the tart shells aside while we prepare the caramel for the filling, this take some patience and focus, when I first tried this recipe I thought I had gotten it wrong but it came together at the end (luckily).

Put sugar in a small saucepan, over a medium heat, using a metal spoon continuously stir the sugar to avoid burning, once a nice caramel colour and all sugar has dissolved add in butter, using a whisk to stir continuously (it will foam up), once it has settled and combined well, add in the cream off the heat, mix in for a smooth glossy caramel, finally add in a good pinch of salt flakes.

Let the caramel cool slightly and pour into our lovely handmade pastry cases

Pop in the fridge to cool and set while we make the chocolate ganache. To make the ganache add the dark chocolate and cream into a saucepan and put over a medium-low heat.

Keep stirring with a metal spoon to avoid burning the chocolate, keep on the heat until glossy and smooth. Take the chilled tarts out of the fridge and pour over your ganache, I have kept mine very free form. Put back into the fridge to let the ganache set slightly or eat it while its all gooey, both ways are delicious!

Blueberry Muffins with a dash of Queens rap

As my first post about baking and my first attempt at putting a recipe out there for others to try I needed something to calm my nerves, something smooth to play seamlessly in the background so I can focus on getting my hands dirty elbow deep in muffin batter (see Paul Hollywood for tips on how a baker should use their hands to know what batters and dough’s should feel like).

I decide on the silky smooth Queens NYC rap stylings of Action Bronson. Think larger than life white guy with a big red beard waxing lyrical about steaks, octopus, fine dining and generally everything food related. He also hosts his own show “Fuck Thats Delicious” on Vice’s Muchies Channel, most certainly worth checking out http://munchies.vice.com/show/fuck-thats-delicious-2 and looking as food and gastronomy from a very different viewpoint to what were are used too!

Yep, a chef who became a rapper, possibly the ulimate for myself who is a lover of rap/hip hop and food. Bronsolini is 33 glorious tracks so seamlessly produced it rolls all into one long set. Foul mouthed like a true chef, it certainly is not something you would listen to around kiddies but this is what creates an authenticity with his music and I wouldn’t want it any other way.

So, after a few introductions to the works of Mr Wonderful (his new album dropping 2015), I think its time to get into the good stuff, baking! My absolute favourite style of cooking, its easy, tasty and always popular in my house and at work. This recipe I have worked on from a basic muffin recipe and added in some extra coconut ingredients to mix it up, I think on the next batch a little bit of lemon zest would take it even further.

Firstly get your laptop, tablet, phone, iPod dock, stereo or what ever you play music through set up and queue up some Action Bronson to get the full experience (or put on your favourite tunes and let me know if they taste better!), you can easily stream full albums from YouTube or check Bronson and crew out in the clip below for some true inspiration

Now that the kitchen is getting hot from all that lycra clad gyrations, preheat the oven onto 180c fan forced while we prep the batter. You can prep the muffin tin also, but I generally only do this right before putting the batter in, up to you really!

What you will need

2 1/4 C self raising flour

90 g butter, cut into small pieces

3/4 C packed brown sugar

180g frozen blueberries or fresh, whatever you can get your hands on/afford

1 Ccoconut milk (I used light, its what I had in my pantry)

50g shredded coconut

2 eggs, beat lightly

1 teaspoon Vanilla

1 mixing bowl, 1 wooden spoon, 12 cups muffin tray, measuring cups & spoons, kitchen scale, pastry brush, muffin cases

Method

Sift flour into the bowl, add the butter and rub them together, they should have an almond meal texture when ready (takes 5 to 10 minutes or approximately 2-3 Bronson songs)
Throw the brown sugar in with the flour butter mix and combine

Add in blueberries, coconut milk, shredded coconut and eggs and combine until a thick batter forms
Now is the time I line my tray, either with melted butter or use muffin cases if you have them handy or want a more styled look (I used some colourful gingham ones for a picnic look)

 

I have found a great tip for getting even batter distribution is to use an ice cream scoop, since the batter is thick enough with this mix it works really well and doesn’t involve getting your hands sticky with muffin goo. A regular ice cream scoop will evenly get 12 decent sized muffins out of the mix. Scoop into the tins and sprinkle with a little extra shredded coconut before putting in the oven.

 

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until golden and the tops spring back lightly

Let the little fellas cool in the try for a few minutes and gently twist to remove from the tin. Enjoy a few while still warm from the oven.

This is great muffin base for any combination of flavours you may have in the pantry if you don’t have any blueberries, maybe some chocolate bits or banana would be nice also.

Happy baking and listening!

Females and Festivities

There is a myth associated with the male contingent of the Caribbean population, that they are a gift to the women of earth. Music is often used a form of seduction for many cultures some may say that the Latin & Caribbean dance styles epitomise sensuality. There have been some fantastic musical releases related to both cultural celebrations and those in response to females, confirming the myth of men being gods gift to women (go to any place that plays salsa music and see first hand how this works in Cuba).

“Don’t Touch me Tomato” is classic calypso song released by the George Symonette Sextette in 1955 and covered by several different artists. This song is epitome of using food as a metaphor for women, but as it is originally sung by a male it does not immediately appear to offer any deeper meaning than simply do not touch any of my tomatoes. Essentially the denotive reading of this song is about people touching various fruits and vegetables common to the Caribbean region, yams, potatoes and apples, possibly in the local marketplace. With the singer requesting not squeezing of the soft fruits prior to purchasing. If we take the same song having it sung by a female an entirely different meaning is reached, below is a rendition of the same song by Josephine Baker.

The term please don’t touch me tomato can now be interpreted on a connotative level, being used a metaphor for the possibly inappropriate touching of females within the Caribbean culture, most likely at dancehall and clubs. The lyrics are setting boundaries for what is deemed acceptable within society and where the line is drawn, given that this was developed in the 1950s this may have changed somewhat in todays modern society.  To support the idea that this song is representative of the female form rather than purchasing tomatoes at the market, is the album cover by Duke of Iron. The use of the tomato placed on the delicate lingerie signifies the region of the female anatomy being referred to and the use of red as the background colour is also representative of the nature of the song, do not touch.

Music is essential during celebrations and festivities with food, music and parties going hand in hand. Within Caribbean culture the value of food is represented in music. Above we have an example of a popular Puerto Rican salsa song that is representative of the celebrations we all enjoy at the end of a long year of work, and the only way to celebrate is by eating an drinking. There is a connotation associated with rum in all Caribbean communities, that as soon as the rum appears the celebrations can officially commence. The relationship Caribbean locals have with rum could related to the connection Russians have with vodka or Australians with beer. It is integral part of the identity and culture and holds a valuable place in the hearts of the locals. Below we have another example of how rum and music work so well. Unfortunately the connotation associated with this particular track is referring the working girls during the trade period, all of the local girls advanced on the Yankees as the moved in the region looking to earn money. The lyrics paint a very clear picture of how these situations would have been played out in this time, and that a Rum and Coca Cola was a signal that the girls were working.